I know there are some online Super G+ tuning guides but of course now I can't seem to find them in my bookmarks.

Anyone remember any?

Also, if anyone is offering tips, I need it for a stock Super G+ application -- we only replace the rear tires with double flanged rims (.250s) and AJ's BlackCat tires. I am getting my a** whopped lately and need to corner better, seems like my straightline speed is pretty good.

Thanks,
'Doba

Try http://www.hoslotcarracing.com .

If the only thing you can do is replace the rear wheels and tires then all you can do is the following to improve your handling:

1) Try running a little less shoe tension. If you can't change the springs you can try squishing them a little. Don't kink them though. If this helps but you lose too much straight line speed you can stretch them back out a little bit to regain a little more horsepower.

2) Use a smaller diameter rear tire. Experiment with different sizes until you get a set that works better. If you can only use one specific tire but are allowed to true them then sand off a tiny bit at a time until you get the stick you need.

3) Make sure you round the edges of the rear tires.

4) Make sure your shoes are wearing evenly.

5) I always bend the rear of the bottom of the shoe hanger forward so it doesn't hang down as low. It also makes the shoe to hanger connection better. This has the effect of moving the heel of the shoe forward slightly so you'll have to rebend your pickups after doing this so they contact the rails along their entire length.

6) Make sure you are running the lightest and lowest center of gravity body you can find.

7) Here's the most important thing to check and the one with the most potential impact: Take a look at the traction magnets the other folks (the winners) are using. If you don't have a rule limiting which SG+ traction magnets you can use then you would definately want to run the older gray traction magnets that have two visible dots on them. They are much stronger than the newer black magnets that don't have the visible dots. If these magnets are allowed I'd expect to see them on the winning cars and on your car.

8) This last tip is more controversial because there are differing opinions: There are two SG+ chassis, #1 and #2. The number is located on the chassis between the front wheels. I prefer the #1 chassis. It has even front wheel holes and the traction magnets sit lower and closer to the rail straight out of the box. Most of the older chassis with the gray 2-dot magnets are #1. I've never had a #1 chassis break in normal handling but they will break (like most any chassis) if the crash is sufficiently violent. The #2 chassis seems to have a bit more straight line speed and the fact that one of the front wheels is skewed up a little has something to do with it. The #2 chassis also responds very well to grooving so some folks prefer a grooved #2 over a #1. I've had some newer #2 chassis come out of the box broken so I kind of have a bad taste in my mouth about them right now. Bottom line: If you are running a #2 then try a #1 and see if it works better for you. Whatever you run, try to run it enough to get the chassis grooved.

Side note: Grooving is the normal/natural wear that occurs from the bottom of the chassis and magnets occasionally rubbing on the rails. To see if you are grooving the chassis, "paint" the underside of the chassis and magnets with a silver Sharpie. Run the heck out of it and see if the Sharpie gets worn off where it passes over the rails, especially around the traction magnets. You want some grooving but you don't want your car constantly rubbing the rails (that will overheat and kill it). You can clean off the Sharpie with rubbing alcohol. If you are not seeing any grooving then you are running too high. If your rules prevent you from running low enough to groove the chassis/magnets then definately run a #1 chassis.

If these things help and get your car sticking better make sure you check the temperature on the arm after a few minutes of running. If it's too hot for your liking you may have to go up in the rear, or if you are running with fully advanced timing, back it off a bit to see if the temperature goes down. Keep in mind however that racing with stock parts does involve a certain amount of abuse to your equipment. You're asking these parts to do more than what they were designed to do as a toy. You will see greater wear and tear on the parts and the occasional catastrophic failure, but that goes with the territory.

Thanks for the lengthy reply AFXToo -- I've been running a #1 chassis but I found a pair of the 2-dot magnets and that seems to have really helped :D

I will try the pick-up shoe bend and the grooving as well.

Thanks -- this is just what I needed :)

'Doba

There are a few more tips for the Super Gs here too:

http://www.supervipersystems.com/VargoSpeedway/Racing_Tips/racing_tips.html


As was said earlier,and I couldn't agree with it more,is that tire size makes all of the difference in the world.It doesn't hurt to have a bunch of different sizes for different tracks either.

One thing that I did was I went through all of my SG+ cars,and found the ones with the hottest armatures and used them for the cars I race.I've never had a G+ that was a dog,but I have come across some in my stash that were just a little bit hotter then the others.I have a few Super G+s that I was able to get as fast as some of my G3 cars with aftermarket arms.EVery little bit helps.

MIke