I suppose maybe this should have gone in the Collecting area, but since I had to paint the bumpers and assemble these, I considered it Modeling. Mike will sell you his B-grade bodies with minor cosmetic blemishes at a reduced price. They come with a clear window piece and unplated gray bumpers that you assemble yourself. I LOVE this Monte Carlo:

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rwurtz/images/mevmonte01.jpg

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rwurtz/images/mevmonte02.jpg

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rwurtz/images/mevmonte03.jpg

I could do a little more detailing, but I need a new silver Sharpie...

(more to come)

I'm excited about this Olds too... as far as I know, it's the only '68-'72 Cutlass available for Tjet chassis...

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rwurtz/images/mevolds01.jpg

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rwurtz/images/mevolds02.jpg

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rwurtz/images/mevolds03.jpg

(and yet one more...)

That's a pretty cool job you've done there; I really like this yr. Monte. How did you get the "sharpie" to dry? I've used it on wheels, but it won't dry for me.

Representing the Mopar stable is this '71 Dart:

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rwurtz/images/mevdart01.jpg

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rwurtz/images/mevdart02.jpg

Oops. I said 4, didn't I? Well, I also got a '69 Chevelle, but I didn't mount it up yet. It's the only one with a visible color blem--there's a little blue speck of resin in the yellow finish, so I'm gonna do a custom paint job on it. These things sure don't look like blems, do they? :D I tellya, the only one I can find a defect on is the Monte Carlo, and that's an air bubble BEHIND the bumper where you can't even see it...

--rick

That's a pretty cool job you've done there; I really like this yr. Monte. How did you get the "sharpie" to dry? I've used it on wheels, but it won't dry for me.

??? I never had a problem with that, I just let the piece sit a few minutes. Wonder if you got a bad one, or if they changed their ink formula. I sure hope not... I was gonna go stock up...

--rick

Look pretty good Rick. Great way to get some nice bods. :thumbsup: rr

That's a pretty cool job you've done there; I really like this yr. Monte. How did you get the "sharpie" to dry? I've used it on wheels, but it won't dry for me.

They dry but do not hold up to handling at all the silver will come right off. You need to clear coat the sharpie with some future and let it set over nite.

Roger Corrie
Virginia Beach, VA

Thanks, Roger. I've noticed in the past that the silver does rub off pretty easily, but I was never sure how the ink would react with Future. Now I know, and I guess I'll dip these guys next chance I get...

--rick

Don't clearcoat Sharpie, it runs nice and smooth! I had a couple of LL that I repainted and used black Sharpie on the glass, you know what happened. :eek:

Would have looked great if that was an effect I was shooting for. And I know If I wanted that effect, I couldn't repeat it. ;) rr

Hey Park-
Very cool bods, and putting them here was right, as you built, painted and detailed on em, man. Gonna have to look into them! I did the same thing as Road Runner blacking Lifelike windows but for clearcoat I used Krylon crystal clear and it worked just fine. That clear is all I use as its the only clear I completely trust to adhere to the vinyl decals I make. Very tuff and the sides dont build up stains from being corner marshalled hundreds of times.

Nice cars, man! --- Circle Track DAC

Don't clearcoat Sharpie, it runs nice and smooth! I had a couple of LL that I repainted and used black Sharpie on the glass, you know what happened. :eek:

Would have looked great if that was an effect I was shooting for. And I know If I wanted that effect, I couldn't repeat it. ;) rr

I have not had Silver Sharpie to run with future however I brushed it on and sid not dip it. I have had black sharpie to run with clear coat, future or Testors

Roger

Hi Rick,

you did a great job on these 3 MEV bodies (wish I had ordered some of these "blems" myself)! Those silver painted bumpers look more than nice!

As I´m just not getting familiar with covering spheric parts with Bare-Metal foil I´m still painting "chrome" pieces myself. Looks O.K. IMHO as bumpers etc. have the same silver as little details like door handles etc.! ;-)

For protecting these silver painted areas I paint a little coat of acrylic paint on those surfaces (some kind of artisans paint). Works fine for occasional racing, but is not as sturdy as a "real" clear coating.

For runners that have to stand multiple crashing and "serious" handling I shoot an additional clear coat (automotive rattle can) - the prevuiosly brushed on lacquer prevents the silver accents from bleeding. I had to mess up a couple of otherwise nice paint jobs before I found out that rattle can (acrylic) lacquers are aggressive to sharpies as well as silver enamel paint... ;-)

Happy painting (oops! Bob Ross mode off...)!

Claus

www.c-jet500.de.vu

I have not had Silver Sharpie to run with future however I brushed it on and sid not dip it. I have had black sharpie to run with clear coat, future or Testors

Roger


Roger, I've never had Silver Sharpie run either.....and I brush all of my Future on.

One word of advice though.....only go with one or two coats of Future over silver Sharpie ink....otherwise it'll turn to more of a greyish silver color. :thumbsup:

Rick, what does Mike charge for his blemished bodies?

Rick, what does Mike charge for his blemished bodies?

Well, he ran a 2 for $25 special in August, but I don't think that's the usual price. I'm kinda thinking it might be $15. I've heard him mention at shows that you can email him at any time and see if he has a blem of the body you want... if you're not too picky about color you can do pretty well that way. He's happy to get a few bucks for a less-than-perfect car, and you're ecstatic that you got this thing that LOOKS perfect for way cheap...

--rick