Hi everyone, new to the phantom dyno and would like to know what good #'s are on a good stock motor? I am using the steel flywheel and the dyno is set on 5 volts.... any help would be appreciated thank you....

with the steel the numbers will be low with stock you should realy get the alumn. flywheel

I Have The Alum....

if u you use alum. flywheel stock motors should be atleast 60 watts but it also depends on a few things, first thing here is all fantom dyno's read different u could have 1 motor and put it on 3 different fantom dyno's and all the number readings will be different. so what i suggest is to take your dyno to the race track with you and look to see who is fast then just ask them if they wouldn't mine running their motor on your dyno then write there numbers down or save the run into your computer. just when u doo that just make sure the motor is cooled down or ask the person for a good or decent motor outta there tool box. hope this helps

Thanks Needthat

Ttttt

Its hard to say what are good #s. Like needthat said, all read different. Mine tends to read lower than most. Mine are good anywhere from 58 to 63 power and .88 and up on torque. I've seen the same motors on other people's read around 65 on power and have even read on here of 70+. These #s aren't the only thing to look at to determine a good motor. Sometimes lower #ed motors will run better on the track than the higher ones. Its important to look at what the motor is doing at the 20 and 30 amp points of the motor. Another thing that will tell you alot is what the #s are right after the race. The best motors will stay consistant from run to run. Just stick to your own dyno for #s and don't pay much attention to what someone else's says. You'll feel alot better about your motors that way.

Make sence z-main, thank you.....

actualy steel flywheel is for stock..... alumin. is realy for modified. Just most people dont have the steel one so they got used to using the other one for stock.

The steel flywheel is for stock however it also wears out the bushings if used alot. If you were to use the steel flywheel I'd use it after you get the motor tuned to your likeing with the aluminum. The reason for the steel flywheel is to put more of a load on the more to get better torque readings. This dyno was designed to calculate gearing and other functions of the program working off of 1.00 minimum on torque. Since most stock motors have yet hit that, the steel helps. The gearing still works well with the aluminum wheel but not as accurate.

This what Todd Putnam posted in another thread about the Fantom Dyno.



Ohio: Length of the wires between the dyno and the battery will drastically alter the readings. The longer the leads, the lower the results. If you look at the initial amp draw at .10 seconds, I'll bet your buddies is drawing more, thus providing higher results.
This was used as a tuning aid to insure accuracy when we used to be able to dyno modified motors. You wanted the dyno to draw a max of 105-110 amps on start up...(at .10 second). If it drew higher or lower, it would throw the accuracy of the results off.

Hyperform: In an earlier post, you stated that the steel flywheel should only be used for mods...That's incorrect. When the Fantom dyno was originally designed, it was designed to dyno modifieds. The program was based on a motor making atleast 1.000 torque, which all modifieds did at that time. When people started to dyno stocks, the torque #'s were less than 1.000, thus throwing off the gearing/rollout calculations, etc. The steel flywheel was introduced to generate atleast 1.000 torque from a stock so the programs and data were more accurate. Using the steel wheel on a mod will draw excessive amps on start up.

We've all just adapted to the aluminum flywheel, even with stock motors when we used to use the Fantom.

Hope this helps...

Todd Putnam
Putnam Propulsion
www.putnampropulsion.com
518-452-0422

IMHO,forget about watts,torque, eff. readings ,the most important #'s on a fantom dyno are on the time base screen[4-1] the watts reading @ .1 and torque reading at wherever the motor makes it max.watts rpm [should be either lines 5 or 6] will tell you more about which motor is better in your toolbox.And contrary to what your wife or girlfriend say,more is better in this instance.

hi so as that one post if i put shorter wires and bigger wire leads on my dyno it would be better the one on mine noe are about 4to 5 feet long and some where like 16 gage wire so did i read that right
lmk ty john

The wire on my is about 38 inches from the case. I'm not sure about gauge. About 14. Yes shorter and bigger wire will give you better #s. I don't know what the actual correct length of wire would be for stock motors. Maybe thats something that needs to be updated or at least a better explaination from Fantom. Longer, shorter wire, battery or power supply, calibration, all give different readings. I feel as long as you are familiar with how your own dyno reads then thats what you go by.

the best dyno there is is the track!!! I also have a fantom and dont use it that much but i let the track be my dyno!!


Brandon

the best dyno there is is the track!!! I also have a fantom and dont use it that much but i let the track be my dyno!!
Brandon


For those that do not have a track in their basement, the dyno is good
for making sure that when you do go to the track,
you have a level of consistency that you are sure of.
They allow you to compare how a motor 'is' to how a motor 'was'.
They can also help weed out motors that are bricks. :rolleyes:

If the track was the best dyno, when you go to Moorseville (NASCAR land)
you wouldn't hear dynos running 24 hours a day in January....