I have noticed in the past couple of months several new racers (for example lowdoughracer, Milky, etc) on here asking many questions.

When I switched to pan car racing I was out in left field and wanted all the knowledge I could get. So I understand fully your thirst for knowledge.

The idea of this thread is to allow the new people to oval a forum where they can ask anything and everything.....I think it will be more contructive to ask the question here rather than to make a new thread each time.

So ask away and I and other fellow racers will do our best to answer your questions.

Also I will try and post a tip every so often. Things that I stumbled upon along the way that really helped me out.

Eric H.
Team Customworks/Putnam/PRS/TQ Cells/ProtoForm/BSR/Finishline/Integy

New to motor tuning? check this site out:

http://www.motortuningsecrets.com/tunestockmotor.html

eric,
do you know if any of the CE chargers have a temp probe? also do you know if classic hobbies or aero tech carry parts for the associated l4? also does a trinity realtime 2 discharger work to bring the cells down to 0 volts?
~Jake Feskanin~

No the CE's do not have a temp probe.

Yes Classic and Aero both carry Associated parts, Classic has more parts specific to pan cars.

Yes the Trinity Real Time 2 takes the cells down to 0 volts for deadshorting purposes.
Another option is the Duratrax 20 amp 6 cell Discharger:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHMR5&P=7
of the Integy Zero 30 (30 amp discharge):
http://integy.automated-shops.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_prod.html?p_prodid=2853&p_catid=24&sid=4wSJJh1FOEkV6wv-28105202261.70

The design on them is nice, 2 bars you pull down, super easy and quick. The Real time you have to screw in 8 little rods that touch each cell. Kind of a pain after a while.

Do you have any setup tips for Akrons outdoor track? I cant seem to get the hang of it.

Do you have any setup tips for Akrons outdoor track? I cant seem to get the hang of it.

Ernie, you are not allowed to post questions here, you can only answer them, you have too much experience, LOL and by the way you don't need anymore speed on our asphalt track. You are the only person I know to ever pull like a 5.4 second lap 3 minutes into the run.

Quote:
Originally Posted by burbs
http://www.rctek.com/handling/acker..._principle.html (http://www.rctek.com/handling/ackerman_steering_principle.html)

this should explain it..


Originally Posted by EROCK


look at burbs tryin to be Scull and Bones.

by the time i read all that i can have 3 different front ends built with different ackermans and report my track results. GOSH !

just kiddin burbs, good link
now i need to go back to college so i can decipher it all, lol


Remeber this post LOL.. Now who's trying to be skull with there own thread.. He HE.. Just kidding, nice idea tho... hopefully the guys posting will take advantage of it..

But i do hve a question... If someone else starts posting there answers or opinions, your not going to disapear, Like he did R U?... ha ha

Hey Burbs,
I figured you might throw that one back at me, lol
Nah, not trying to be good ol S&B at all. You know me better than that.
Also, anyone's opinions are welcome here. Matter of fact I am hoping the more experienced guys help out on this thread. Cause I am far from being an expert, my goal is just to get correct info to NEW racers.

All I want to do with this thread is help the new guy out and stop 15 new threads per day covering basic info, like how to deadshort a battery? What chargers do oval guys use? What center shock do oval guys use? etc etc.

When it comes to chassis theory (long vs short wheelbase, big vs small spur, offset vs straight up etc) I bow out of those topics. While I have my OPINION on those topics, it is simply that, an OPINION, not fact. I have learned there are some standards with oval cars, but the more I race and travel around you will see 10 different guys with 10 different setups on 10 different cars with 10 different battery brands and 10 different motor brands. And all work well and make the show.

And when somebody asks a theory type question, most of the time, there are many factors people leave out on why something works or doesn't work. Then when they go and try it, it might not work for them. There are just too many variables to try and answer chassis theory questions. From talking to some of the factory drivers, they quit posting on here because of that reason. They give advice and then some guy who has been racing for 2 months says they are wrong.

So if you want the part number for an HPI center shock, ask it here.
If you want to know spring rates of side shocks, ask it here.
If you want to know the optimum amount of ackerman to run, see the other thread, LOL

ok eric i got a question for you. what effect do the three rea shocks have on the car and when do you adjust them? also wats a good setup i can use for the outside track at classic with a body that has no wing or cut out back and spec tires all around?
~Jake Feskanin~

I would like to know if there is such a thing as a list of motor spring with corresponding scale reading in ounces or grams like the kind of numbers you get with Integy Spring Dyno. Also if possible list them by manufacturer. I have seen a list of front, side, center & off-road spring rate but not motor spring. Thanx

one last question for you eric. i dont have a dremel but i have been told that i should polish my kingpins and ther things with the dremel. since i dont have one is there anything i can use as a substitute for the dremel.
~Jake Feskanin~

I would like to know if there is such a thing as a list of motor spring with corresponding scale reading in ounces or grams like the kind of numbers you get with Integy Spring Dyno. Also if possible list them by manufacturer. I have seen a list of front, side, center & off-road spring rate but not motor spring. Thanx

GREEN 9oz
RED 11 oz
PURPLE 13oz

in all honesty these are all you should ever need.. most springs come from trinity.. this is there rates..

one last question for you eric. i dont have a dremel but i have been told that i should polish my kingpins and ther things with the dremel. since i dont have one is there anything i can use as a substitute for the dremel.
~Jake Feskanin~

You should definlity polish your king pins, If you don't have a dremel you can use a drill, Just don't get crazy you can over sand/polish and make slop......

And don't get your rag caught in the drill chuck. Be careful and maybe use paper toweling instead. Don't want you getting your trigger finger hurt.

what polish do you recomend for polishing my kingpins, armatures, etc, etc? and how do you suggest i go abut polishing my stuff?
~Jake Feskanin~

what polish do you recomend for polishing my kingpins, armatures, etc, etc? and how do you suggest i go abut polishing my stuff?
~Jake Feskanin~

Mothers polish, go to Walmart in the automotive section. Its a little red can with white cap on top.

and do i jus run the drill on low and rub the polish up and down on the kingpin or how do i polish my stuff?
~Jake Feskanin~

You can polish your Kingpins in a drill but do not tighten very much for you will have Nicks on kingpin. Put polish on king pin, use paper towel and polish to nice luster. Turn it over and do the other end that was in the drill. Remove and simply polish with new clean towel.

erock1331/burbs: I think this is a good thread for you guys to share, you two guys are the ones that answer all my Q'sLOL Good Job!!!!!!!
Thanks for all the info.!!!Now if i can only remember it all while Im at the track!!!:)

wow eric you got one heck of a thread going on here.lol. no actually its a really helpful thread and i have a another question. how can having too tight or too loose of a diff affect the handling of the car?
~Jake Feskanin~

When I change my pod position, do I need to change hubs on either side?

wow eric you got one heck of a thread going on here.lol. no actually its a really helpful thread and i have a another question. how can having too tight or too loose of a diff affect the handling of the car?
~Jake Feskanin~

http://www.rctek.com/general/differentials_basics.html

check the link. it should explain all about diffs..

read though and print out out the pages,, i did.. it is mostly based on 1/4 scale cars, but the info does relate to 10th as well..

When I change my pod position, do I need to change hubs on either side?

if the pod is in the standard or center position, you need a narrow hub on the right side of the diff.. the left side hub doesnt always need to be changed,, you can shim it accordingly..

when you pod is in the offset position, IE moved to the left you need a wider diff hub.. you may need to change up or re shim the left hub accordingly...

the change in hub size keeps you rear axle spacing correct , in relation to your front wheels.. you can also use shims to make up the difference, but I feel to many shims can be a problem... You get axle flex, and they can break.. the wider hubs support the axle better..

erock1331/burbs: I think this is a good thread for you guys to share, you two guys are the ones that answer all my Q'sLOL Good Job!!!!!!!
Thanks for all the info.!!!Now if i can only remember it all while Im at the track!!!:)


PAPER AND PENCIL!!!!!!!!! LOL thats what i was always told.. although now you can just hit print HE HE.. I have been racing for 17 years, and i still learn all the time.. Mostly cause i forget more then i learn LOL. But i have a note book.. When i have a fast day, i write down everything.. I went to walmart, and got a 3 ring binder and some clear page sleaves.. you can pop them in and out when needed...

wow this is the second mention of walmart.. I wonder if they would sponsor r/c lol


I agree EROCK.. nice thread...

Read this thread so far from beginning to present, one word--> AWESOME!!

See Ya'
JB

I'm going to pick up a durometer...I have several "OLD" sets of tires, mostly Purples and Pinks that feel really SOFT. These are still N.I.P. but I'm afraid they may be too soft.

If they are soft, how would I compensate and still be able to run them...Harder Springs? Cut them SHORTER to remove side flex?

I'm thinking maybe keep these on the Left Side and run the Firmer tires on the Right...

What do you guys think...

...another question...

Running mostly FLAT Asphalt with a L4, what is the Spring Steel "T" Plate of Choice ...and why?

I've been running the f-glass "t" plates, but was thinking about switching....what differences would I notice?

SORRY, I'm NOT New to Oval Racing...but SOOOO many things have changed the past few years...and I have NOT kept up with technology...

If they are soft, how would I compensate and still be able to run them...Harder Springs? Cut them SHORTER to remove side flex?


You could try harder springs, if the car gets tight cause of the soft foam the harder suspension should free it back up. I take it you are running on asphalt. One of the things I notice running on asphalt is tire traction compound is key. When I am extremely loose I run Tire Tweak. When car is on I use just Red Dot. Maybe before going to a harder setup for the softer tires try something like Jack the Gripper which has less grip than most traction dopes.

You could try cutting the tire down to take off some of the side bite, plus when you get close to the rim I have always found the foam tends to feel harder. But asphalt eats up foam so I wouldnt waste tires unless it was for a big race.







I'm thinking maybe keep these on the Left Side and run the Firmer tires on the Right...

Running mostly FLAT Asphalt with a L4, what is the Spring Steel "T" Plate of Choice ...and why?

I've been running the f-glass "t" plates, but was thinking about switching....what differences would I notice?


This is one of those questions that will be more Opinion based so what works for one guy might not work for another. Alot of this depends on how your center shock is setup. For instance if you run super soft center you can get away with spring steel, but if you run firmer center shock then you might want a soft T-plate.

Here is my opinion:

I am typically a spring steel guy, well when it comes to carpet that is all I run.

But on asphalt I really like the Hyperdrive .062 black phenolic plate. It lasts and not does not lose it's form like alot of the .058 and .062 glass plates out there do. Most asphalt tracks tend to be bumpy, and the the fiberglass ones tend to absorb the bumps better than spring steel. When I run spring steel on bumpy tracks, the car sounds like it's slapping itself back to the surface, if that makes sense.

On the other hand If the track is super smooth, then I would suggest trying a Finishline double slot (medium) steel plate and go form there. I have actually seen guys run the triangle cuts (firm) and run well too on asphalt.

ok eric i got a question for you. what effect do the three rea shocks have on the car and when do you adjust them? also wats a good setup i can use for the outside track at classic with a body that has no wing or cut out back and spec tires all around?
~Jake Feskanin~

Jake sorry I wrote a big long explanation and my computer just lost it..ughh

for side shocks see this thread:
http://www.hobbytalk.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid=309&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0

Center shock:
If you car is super loose, try a softer spring. If you car is slightly loose try backing off your shock adjuster a couple turns to take load off the spring.

Same with the side shocks. If the car is loose (spinning out) try adding more tweak. To add more tweak tighten down the shock adjuster nut on the RR shock.
If the car is tight (pushing) take some tweak out by backing off the RR shock adjuster nut.

i have a question about the difference between stock and 19t setups. what would you change if you were goin to go from stock to 19t or vice versa. with the same car?? is it alot of things or would you just do a few things? can you be fast with similer setups for those 2 classes? thanks in advance

joe ivo

I can tell you this.. a 19 turn car on a fast setup, will work well in stock,, you may need to loosen the car up a bit, but your setup beside weight usually does not change.. im refering to cap tires, or flat carpet.. im not sure on banked carpet... But a car fast in stock, is not always fast in 19 turn... If you set your car up for stock , it may be fast.. but as soon as you drop in the extra HP you will notice there is still some flaws in your setup. its kind of odd how it works...Most of the fast guys here in stock, practice with a 19 turn.. Then come race time adjust your tweak accordingly.. These guys who setup with a 19 generally are faster when they run stock, then guys who dont..

very true a 19 turn will show your cars flaws.

wats the lowest diameter you guys will run on your tires before you throw them out and buy new ones?
~Jake Feskanin~

IT depends on the brand.. some companies have smaller rims then others.. so you can run them down to a smaller diameter..I find on flat carpet, with bsr's or TM's when i ran for tm. i run them down to about 2.09 before i chuck em.. seemed like around 2.13 they got really fast

TRC's i belive you can run down to about 2.05..

burbs,
i have these trc spec tires that are at 2.10 in diameter and i was wondering do you think i could get a way with running them for a day of racing and then throwing them out. i would be running them on a flat asphalt track and i dont know if the accelerated wear would wear them down before the night is over. thanks for the help.
~Jake Feskanin~

Center shock:
If you car is slightly loose try tightening your shock adjuster a couple turns.

Eric I disagree with this statement.More preload on the center shock will make you looser.

I believe it depends on where the car is loose. If you are loose into the corner then less preload may help. If you are loose out of the corner under power then a little more preload may be the answer.

burbs,
i have these trc spec tires that are at 2.10 in diameter and i was wondering do you think i could get a way with running them for a day of racing and then throwing them out. i would be running them on a flat asphalt track and i dont know if the accelerated wear would wear them down before the night is over. thanks for the help.
~Jake Feskanin~

i would say you can still do it as long as the car feels good still. the smaller they get the less side bite you have. so it may affect the way the car works..i usually run mine till that happens.. with the cost of tires, i like to get all i can out of them..

Porksalot,
When I ran 19t and stock at our flat carpet track the cars were set-up the same. However the tweak was not the same. For 19t the set up was slightly looser than the stock car to help it turn in and rotate. Other than that the spring rates were the same on both cars and the compound tires were the same.

John

Eric I disagree with this statement.More preload on the center shock will make you looser.

yep u are right i mistyped that, thanks for the correction, I will edit my above post !!!!

i have a question about the difference between stock and 19t setups. what would you change if you were goin to go from stock to 19t or vice versa. with the same car?? is it alot of things or would you just do a few things? can you be fast with similer setups for those 2 classes? thanks in advance

joe ivo

On banked tracks.

Typically I run alot stiffer in stock than 19T to keep the car free.

Front springs
Stock - Tight track - Blacks, more flowing turns I use Purples
19T - Green and Purple or 2 Purples

Side shocks
Stock - 35 wt with Red and Copper springs
19T - 30 wt Usually a Blue and Gold spring

Center
Stock - 55 wt with anywhere from a Silva Copper to an HPI Orange spring depending on track conditions.
19T - I dont think I have found a good center spring yet, lol

Tires
Stock - Black LF, Blue RF, White LR and Black RR
19T - Grey LF, Blue RF, White LR, Grey RR

At Classic I seen Frank Peachock take his 19T car with minimal changes and run stock and set the record, so many setups work, it also hinges on driving style. Alot of the times when a big time Mod or 19T driver drops to Stock, Even though their car might not have the perfect "Stock setup on" their car they will be fast because A. they can hit their line every lap, which keeps the momentum up which is critical in stock..and B. their car's are built so well and efficient which is also critical for stock.

i have a question about the difference between stock and 19t setups. what would you change if you were goin to go from stock to 19t or vice versa. with the same car?? is it alot of things or would you just do a few things? can you be fast with similer setups for those 2 classes? thanks in advance

joe ivo

I agreewith "JMB" on post #39.
I run alot of 19 turn and have found when I'm forced to run stock, I can get away with just backing a few clicks of steering out of the radio.

Later, Bret

wats the lowest diameter you guys will run on your tires before you throw them out and buy new ones?
~Jake Feskanin~

Also watch if your tires get low, the chassis may drag, so you might have to take your shims out from under the front end and put different ride hieght adjusters on the rear to lower the axle.

Alot of it depends on side bite, some tracks require alot of side bite so if they get too low the car will get loose.

Another factor to watch for is when new guys start to race, they typically run their tires to death and never recut or even them up. By doing that stagger starts to wear in and can make the car start acting differently. For instance a guy was running his car last night and he had a ton of reverse stagger in the rear (RR tire smaller than the LR tire), not by choice but just from running his tires a lot before evening them up. I said let me me guess you are fighting a loose condition, he said yep, how did u know. He swapped them around and I said watch cause the car is gonna be tight, so to compensate he took a little tweak out of the car.

hey thanks everyone for that info. it should be a big help!

joe ivo

thanks for the help everyone. luckily eric i checked all the tires and they are the same diameter so i should be ok for a little while. can you give me a good starting setup for the outside track at classic with spec tires and no wing or back of the body cut out. thanks
~Jake Feskanin~

Jake if you are not going to run a wing, you will need a pretty soft setup to hook you up.

I would run a Green LF spring, Purple RF spring
The blue spec tires are pretty soft, run those up front
Run green spec rears
55 wt oil in the center with a Silva copper spring
35 wt oil in the sides with Associated Blue side springs.
That should put you real close.
Protoform Dodge R/T body

thanks for the setup eric. hopefully you can get to the track this saturday. do you know if it is better to buy the long wolfe kingpins or the associated ones people have been talkng about. do you know the part numbers for both kingpins.
~Jake Feskanin~

wolfe pins are re bagged associated. if this is your first kingpin upgrade go wolfe,.. you get the spring retainers with them.. but after that get the associated 9110 for replacements,( cheaper), just dont lose the retainers.

The Wolfe ones also come with the spacers and washers youll need plus dirrections :)
Sorry bout the Hi-jack ;) Erock and Burbs your doin a Fine Job here!!

and you can mount the wolfe kingpins right on to the stock associated a arms?
~Jake Feskanin~