I recently moved into a nice ranch-style home and my wife basically told me, aside from the washer/dryer area, the rest of the basement is mine to do as I please.

:D:D:D

So anyway now I am in the first stages of builing a large HO track, a road course, and I have just a few questions.

1 -- Does anyone besides the Greg Braun site have plans for a table? Are there plans in woodworking books or magazines, perhaps? I am thinking just 4 x 8 sheets of plywood and 2 x 4s for bracing, legs, etc. but I am always interested in learning how others do a task like this.

2 -- This is a tougher question, perhaps -- Aside from the wiring for the track, I would like to utilize space under the table for storage. That being said, would it be prohibitively hard to incorporate some kind of cabinetry, drawers or shelving into the design of the track table? Maybe make the cabinets, etc first and then elevate the track table a few inches above them to accomodate the wiring and such?? I have never seen this done so if anyone has any ideas I would love to hear them.

As I think of questions I will ask -- I know a lot of you guys are armed with a good bit of experience in this kind of thing.

Thanks,
'Doba

If you're routing your own, try this site, LOTS 'O TRACKS.

http://www.oldslotracer.com/

As far as storage...how about cabnets, kitchen cabnets, lots of kitchen cabnets.

I did a very simple 4x16 table, essentially two 4x8 tables end to end, just using 2 sets of banquet table legs screwed to the bottom of two 4x8 plywood sheets, reinforced with a 2x4 frame underneath and 1x3 retaining walls on top. I dunno if I'd use a design like that for a commercial table or to host club events, but for me and my kids and an occasional guest to run on the 2-lane layout, it's plenty sturdy. I had a big detailed post here about it, but it was in summer of 2003 and I can't seem to find anything that old in the archives. If you're interested in a simple table like that I'll dig out pictures...

--rick

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Nothing you want is out of the question. You could build storage cabinets that roll on casters and nest under the slot table to accomodate access during the build and wiring phase. Or you could make the cabinetry part of the structure and negate the need for cross bracing. If I were building such a system I'd find a way to make it modular and movable so you can build it and break it down in modular sections. If you come up with a standard module size, say 4x4 you could even rearrange the modules in the future to change the layout (L's, T's, etc.). I'm just talking a modular table, not a modular track like Greg has on his web site (S-track).

I'm extremely impressed with Greg's web site. Lots of great advice, but I steer clear of some aspects of his table building advice. As with any advice you should seek alternate opinions and reach your own conclusion. To get another opinion about tables I'd highly recommend that you look at a book called "How to Build Model Railroad Benchwork" by Linn Westcott. He covers several methods of table building that are applicable to slot car tracks. There are other books in this genre that are probably good also like "Basic Mode Railroad Benchwork: The Complete Photo Guide" by Jeff Wilson.

Thanks -- I will look for those books. We have a decent Hobby Shop nearby that carries hobby books so I'll start there I guess, plus they are less that a half-mile from where I work.

The modular idea sounds good too -- now the gears in the old brain are spinnin' . . .

'Doba

My track was originally built on a 4 x 8 table with 2x4 framing and then was expanded 3 times, eventually making it assembled modules that formed a 10' X 22' "L". It was all bolted to the walls with front legs only. When I moved I had to cut apart the modules and then build support structures to re-assemble everything onto. It turned out the module idea worked pretty good for moving the large layout.

This is how the supports were built:
http://www.planetofspeed.net/PhotoPost/data/3012/1PICT0928-med.jpg

Then each section was bolted to the supports:
http://www.planetofspeed.net/PhotoPost/data/3012/1PICT0972-med.jpg

Once the sections were shimmed and aligned, we drilled 1/2" holes through the sections and bolted them together with carriage bolts:
http://www.planetofspeed.net/PhotoPost/data/3012/1PICT1024-med.jpg

Now the entire layout can be moved around on the castors. Worked out great!

Thanks for detailed pics SlotV.

I like the caster idea more and more.

I am thinking of going with a 8' x 16' layout, but I need to layout a design on the floor where there are no turns in the "infield" section of the track -- corner marshaling would be just too hard. An 8' x 16' is kind of big but I have a lot of track (A LOT) and the size would perfectly fill the amount of space I want to dedicate to the track, with room to more around.

Thanks again -- and anyone who want to add anyting please do as I would love to get as many different ideas as possible before I start!

'Doba

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That corner hill on Slott V's track is amazing!!!


I'll say.I always like looking at the pics he posts.I've gotten a lot of good ideas from him.

Hey Slot V,is that an N gauge train layout I see peeking out down in the bottom pic??????
I LOVE model railroading.But to do it the way I would like,I would need to work a few more jobs.

Mike

Slott V's is some great ideas giving mobility for potential relocations. I like all the little details in the displays - especially the thoughtfulness of furnishing refreshments at the marshalling stations! :hat:

Here's a good shot of the modules. In some places the top side scenery had to be cut to get to the 1/2" plywood underlayment.

http://www.planetofspeed.net/PhotoPost/data/3010/1PICT0685-med.JPG

Making the supports and having the track on castors allows me to work on areas I could never get to. Years ago I had to build the entire back portion of the track on my knees, including all the mountains!

Thanks for the compliments guys- That track is coming up on 15 years old. It needs a complete revamp- after years of use and moving last fall the scenery is kind of beat up. I plan on spending some time on it this fall. Then the basement gets remodelled. Or maybe the other way around... :p

AFXTOO- The mountain peak is 5'.6" tall. The banked turn is 50 degrees. ;)

The N guage train layout is there for another day. It was an adoption from my step father. It's a 10' X 11' layout in 4 large pieces, largely based on the Chesapeake & Ohio Railroad. No room so it sits in the garage rafters for now.

More pictures of the move and the re-assembly HERE (http://www.planetofspeed.net/PhotoPost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=1) if you haven't seen them. Also more pics of the table supports.

Scott V.
Vargo Speedway (http://www.supervipersystems.com/VargoSpeedway)

I recently moved into a nice ranch-style home and my wife basically told me, aside from the washer/dryer area, the rest of the basement is mine to do as I please. :D

Thanks,
'Doba

Seems to me I had a similar conversation about six years ago. "I just need the corner honey and you can have the rest of the basement" to quote my better half. If it's unfinished, you'd better hurry up & start laying out your property lines real fast. By the time I finished puting in my little computer/tv room in (15X12) and built and installed the 4X16 table to put the track on, I had already lost about half of the remaining space that was in the basement. So much for the pool table. Hell, I didn't know she needed a sewing room. I don't know why, she doesn't sew? :freak: ;) rr

Seems to me I had a similar conversation about six years ago. "I just need the corner honey and you can have the rest of the basement" to quote my better half. If it's unfinished, you'd better hurry up & start laying out your property lines real fast. By the time I finished puting in my little computer/tv room in (15X12) and built and installed the 4X16 table to put the track on, I had already lost about half of the remaining space that was in the basement. So much for the pool table. Hell, I didn't know she needed a sewing room. I don't know why, she doesn't sew? :freak: ;) rr

Well this house had a large bar PLUS a pool table included with the deal . . .

Yep I'm liking it :thumbsup:

'Doba

Doba,

Try checking out Model Railroad table building books. I am building a MDF race track using 1X2's and framing as used by Railroaders. When you screw two pieces of 1X2's together in an "L" shape looking from an end they are very strong and light. If you glue them and screw them together they are even stronger. Using 1X2's is much cheaper than 2X3 or even 2X4's. BTW, what part of Milwaukee did you move to? I live just west of Racine 25 minutes from Lucky Bob's and Greenfield News and Hobby.

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Doba,

Try checking out Model Railroad table building books. I am building a MDF race track using 1X2's and framing as used by Railroaders. When you screw two pieces of 1X2's together in an "L" shape looking from an end they are very strong and light. If you glue them and screw them together they are even stronger. Using 1X2's is much cheaper than 2X3 or even 2X4's. BTW, what part of Milwaukee did you move to? I live just west of Racine 25 minutes from Lucky Bob's and Greenfield News and Hobby.

I took AFXToo's advice and picked up "Basic Mode Railroad Benchwork: The Complete Photo Guide" by Jeff Wilson. Neat book -- definitely agree that 2 x 4s are probably overkill for the table, but might be good for a separate caster module like SlotV used.

I'm over in West Allis now, not far from Model Empire.

'Doba

I just helped my Niece move to West Allis on 76th St. I have to post some pics of my benchwork and track. I have been busy remodelling the Kitchen and redoing my basement to make more room for my track. Using the gridwork style for the benchwork is great as it makes for a great base for the track and scenery and is really strong and is felexible enough for changing the layout. Good luck in the new house...

Ya even I'll admit that 4x4's are overkill but they aren't that expensive, provided a sturdy base, and contributed to a simple design. I needed to snug up inside of the corners of the 2 X 4 frame work of the tables. I was just showing an idea that worked. ;) The tables have 1/2 treated plywood (left over from another project) and 1/4" plywood overlays on top of that between the track sections. The sections with elevated areas have a lot of 1 X 4 framework and then plaster sections on top. My track tables themselves are actually pretty heavy on some sides and the whole thing bolted together takes some muscle to move around. The bases are very sturdy.

My track tables were built with 2 X 4' out of extra lumber I had from another project. However, since my track was literally built into a room with no access to the back or sides of the track, it had to be strong enough for me to crawl on top of to work on all the back scenery areas. It will support a 200 lb person.

Here's another idea how to support a track table that's affordable: The 1/32 track tables I made for my garage were 1 X 4 framing and much simpler. It all hinged up against the garage wall. This large 4 X 20 table became the table for another members HO track today. To support the existing tables he just got saw horse jaws and mounted 2 X 4 saw horses under the table. Further bracing could be added for more stability. (the metal saw horse is just tucked under and not supporting the tables) Now how's that for a more simple design? :wave:

http://www.supervipersystems.com/VargoSpeedway/HO_Tech/Power_Taps/power1.jpg