Seeing's how you seem to be the "Grand Puba" (if you will) of Layout Designing, I was wondering if you could help me with a design.

I'm very fond of the "Neubauer 21" layout on the hoslotcarracing. web site, particularly the position of the terminal tracks. However, not so with the way it "clips" the bottom track. Is there a way to re-position it so that it doesn't make that "crossover" on the tight or middle turn in the center? The "crossover" already is pretty much where i'd like it to be seeing how it's going on a door into the right hand corner.

Also, should something be between the actual door & the track itself, I want to use foamboard to bring "up" the track, so should I use 2 layers of it?

Thanks for the help.

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These layouts might require the use of higher-Ohm controllers. A 45-75 Ohm controller would probably not allow any time for changing speeds in and out of the straights. A 120-Ohm controller might be the way to go. I'd be interested to hear from others with this size layout on this issue.

THANKS!!! That #7 layout is very nice. Now when you say a bead of silicone are you talking along the edge or as this site describes (pretty crude i think)...http://www.homeracingworld.com/hodoorlayout.htm .

Also, re: a door, I hear an interior, hollow door works, but is there difference in these doors? I know some are VERY flimsy.

These layouts might require the use of higher-Ohm controllers. A 45-75 Ohm controller would probably not allow any time for changing speeds in and out of the straights. A 120-Ohm controller might be the way to go. I'd be interested to hear from others with this size layout on this issue.


Is this more money news i'm smelling?

:freak:

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Gonna have to get me a door. Some nice choices, thanks AFX. :thumbsup: rr

I'll take door #8 please...
Thanks for the track diagrams...
Scott

OK AfxToo, those are also some awesome layouts, but what bugs me is.....what do you do with the wiring for the inside terminal track? That's what got me "hooked" on your previous designs, the way the lanes "came around" so there was no worries re: where to place the 2 seperate terminals.

IS THERE AN EASIER WAY???

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Just want you all to know, you have me chewing on ideas for making this doable with Tyco track...

i already have a functional version of the Tuckaway 25 done with Tyco... hmmm...

--rick

These should all be possible now using Tyco track with the aftermarket 6" turns...

AfxToo, I had thought about the idea of a hole through the door to route the wiring, however the "door" will be mounted on the wall and be used on the opposite side, it's also going to be mounted in my living room above the couch.
I'm going to be using all types of slots, Tyco, LL, AFX mag. & non-mag along with JLXT & JLTO. I'm really torn between the 2 here:

Nice turns on this one.
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=19438

Nice fast, straights here.
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=18652

Any thoughts from anyone?

I think you'd be much better off with the second layout in your last post (id=18652). On shorter layouts, you really need to keep as many straights together as possible. If you include a straight within a turn, you can't accelerate on it so it's practically wasted. In effect, it just broadens the curve's radius and at best might allow for a slightly higher overall speed in the turn. I think you want to avoid having a track where all you can do is hold the controller in one place for an entire lap. That gets old in a hurry. That's also why I mentioned using a higher-Ohm controller in a previous post. That would help give you more control in transitioning from the curves to the straights. The LL, Tomy, and other stronger magnet cars will likely be difficult to control anyway because they're so fast, you can't react quickly enough on a shorter track. Then again, maybe I'm just a clutz. Hopefully someone who frequently drives on a door track will give us their take.

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The other option is to build smaller scale drivers stations that provide hookups on the table edge that folds up. You'd have to solder wires to the track and mount connectors on controllers but you could end up with a much neater overall appearance. If you like a particular layout enough to make it permanent and attach it to a table, there are always ways to make it work despite some obstacles.


Please tell me more on this option, is there a site that explains this (w/ pic's.)?