Does anyone know where to get the green 3M masking tape online? I can't seem to find it locally arround here.

try coastairbrush.com or bearair.com......... the green 3M tape is
usally found only at commercial automotive paint supply stores and not readily available anywhee else.

If you want another place to try locally, give a call to a few of the local body shops and dealerships. They pretty much all use the green 3M tape and can either sell it to you or give you the source.

Found a place online to buy the green masking tape.

http://www.autobodysupply.net/

Has anyone used the blue or purple 3M masking tape, how does it compare? You can buy it at Walmart.

Hello all.... been tied up with my hobby shop and a recent heart attack in january.passed a blood clot it looks like, but everything's getting back to normal I hope! How's the painting been?


Here's a viper I painted up recently that sold on e-bay...........

Viper (http://www.jsbodies.com/viper11.jpg)

Viper (http://www.jsbodies.com/viper09.jpg)

Jeeze!! I hope your alright!!
I'd say get well soon, but you sound like your better anyway, so i hope you got well soon! :)

I see its done no harm to your stunning airbrushing talents, and I dont think theres anything that could do that!

Yet ANOTHER great bodyshell.
Take it easy!!

PaulC2K

Jeeze!! I hope your alright!!
I'd say get well soon, but you sound like your better anyway, so i hope you got well soon! :)

I see its done no harm to your stunning airbrushing talents, and I dont think theres anything that could do that!

Yet ANOTHER great bodyshell.
Take it easy!!

PaulC2K


Thanks Paul !

I hope to be painting full time soon, but running the shop almost daily prevent's me from it........ racing season should be picking up for us soon with spring here.. (unless we do go to war) but I hope to be back around more often!

hello everyone..... how's painting? biz is starting to pick up on my end, and we open to new orders the 20th of this month.

I have been working with the spazstix some more and got the word from my sales rep at HRP yesterday that the chrome and chromalusion type paints will be a little thicker from now on.

This will allow the paints to be sprayed in fewer coats with better coverage......... very convienient!

Good on ya JSB! :thumbsup:

The new paint is being arranged, with some luck it wont be long till its available. I beleive in terms of the application, it'll be much quicker!!
Unfortunatly i'm not able to see or try the paint being in the UK, but if the reports from Jesse are anything to go from, the paints should take a big jump forward in quite a few departments.
It is a bit too thin for someone like yourself to spray, you wouldnt want to be sat around waiting for layers to dry and having to put 5 layers on compared to say 2/3 normally. That factor has been dealt with, so it should be quicker to shoot soon!

I've spent the past month or so designing a photo gallery for the Spaz Stix website, and although its working as of 4am this morning, its not officially open till the weekend, i've still got to upload all the current pics and hopefully the link will go onto the site.
We'd definatly appreciate some of your pics if you were able to show them on the site? Not sure if thats something you prefer to leave your site to do, but it'd certainly be appreciated if a few of your pics were to go onto the site

Cheers

PaulC2K
http://www.spaz-stix.com

Paul, I'll get a few pic's together for you and maybe paint up something new also.

Will drop in and check the site out too. There's no way for you to get the paint over to you without a lot of hassle?

Its still in experimental stages to some extent, and the new formula is still fairly fresh. I'll probably get some sent over when its a bit further along the developement line, i dont think its far off actually, but it could be that all the ranges will be 'updated' in the same way so they'll probably all come out at the same time rather than in batches.

They'll definatly be more popular, and hopefully a new product or two?? Who knows, but theres plenty of possitive action going on!! :)
Unfortunatly i cant expand on it more, but as with everything, the best is yet to come!!

PaulC2K

oh, thanks for the pics, and im looking forward to the possibilty of a newly painted shell of yours!!

Sorry for the bland pics, the body looks much more metallic in real life and the scales seem to shimmer in the sunlight. Was trying to incorporate the dragon scheme I did a while ago into a cool racing/street scheme without the whole car looking like a dragon/snakes head.

Body: HPI Silvia 190mm
Paint:
Scales = Faskolor pearl green, pearl blue, fasflourescent green and yellow
Body = Faspearl black and SpazStix chrome.
Mask: Hand cut Bob Dively's Liquid Mask.

Front
http://home.attbi.com/~johnhauser/Silva_Snake_11.jpg


Top
http://home.attbi.com/~johnhauser/SilvaSnake2.jpg


The original
http://home.attbi.com/~johnhauser/dragon1.jpg

If you're taking votes, I'd go for the green/orange. Just scare the other cars off the track!

That's awesomd HM!!!! I need to get liquid mask apparently.

Painted my Losi body up and finished a couple of cans of spray so it looks a bit of a hack job where the trim around the bottom is three different colours and about ten different styles. But apart from that it is ok. I will post pics when I can.

I am going to pick up a cheap airbrush and start painting stuff to get the hang of it.

James

hey i saw something and had to ask. before the question i will add i am new to painting bodies. i have only done 2 body many years ago with paint brushes. so i know nothing.here goes

was reading the new rc car action, saw the body painting page and started to read . he said he used a shapy to shade some things on the body. will that work or is that asking for troble?

thank you in advace
matt

This is the most chatter I've seen here in quite a while!!!

Mames- sharpies will bleed through water based paints no matter what.......... o make sure it's completely dry and draw on the body, not the paint.

sharpies do work better on laquer paints, but will bleed through the lighter colors too- especially with spray cans.

use sharpies sparingly! at least pratice on scrap with them first!


Anakist- do get an airbrush! (but not a real cheap one, or you'll be dissapointed with it quickly).......... you'll hardly ever go back to cans :D

I'm with Nil......... :D


HM...... I knew you couldn't stay away from the airbrush for too long.......... those guys over on the RCzone thread ain't quite got it together eh?


here's another micro for ya..........


Micro GMC (http://www.jsbodies.com/microgmc02.JPG)

http://home.attbi.com/~johnhauser/Acura_1___Rip_Checkers.jpg

I am looking to start painting bodies. I was wondering what type of set up I should be looking at. I want something that will do a decent job but I'm only looking to get started and will upgrade if I really get into it. I am just wondering what are some key features I should be looking for or what brand names and such. Any info is appreciated.

I am looking to start painting bodies. I was wondering what type of set up I should be looking at. I want something that will do a decent job but I'm only looking to get started and will upgrade if I really get into it. I am just wondering what are some key features I should be looking for or what brand names and such. Any info is appreciated.

Get a double-action brush. The high-quality ones are metal. The old standbys are Badger and Paasche. I personally have a Paasche VL, and I like it ok, but it's starting to seem heavy and bulky in the hand. I've heard Iwatas are good.

For a while I was using an Aztek brush. It seemed kind of chintzy but it worked all right, and it was very light and ergonomic. I abandoned it because it was too hard to clean up the tip if you got it clogged with particulates like metallic paint. For smooth paints, like dope or enamel, I loved it. I just didn't trust all that plastic...

This probably sounds incredibly dumb.... I have been wondering where the actual paint goes when u paint it. Do u do all the painting on the inside and let it show through the plastic or paint on the outside?

ED :freak:

Do u do all the painting on the inside and let it show through the plastic Ay-yup. That way the paint stays relatively intact when you kiss the boards. The outside is generatlly reserved for stickers and fine detailing line, although flat black, to simulate opening, is better applied outside because flat paint still looks glossy if you put it on the inside.

The thing to remember is to put on the darker colors first, so that they "hide" the lighter colors to follow. If you put on white, then red, the red will show through and give it a pinkish cast.

Hmmm yes that does make everything clearer. I was gettin confused. :drunk:

ED :freak:

wassup guys, i got a couple of questions. I'm about to paint my first body. i have always had them airbrushed up until now. im not a complete amature though, i've had alot of experience painting model cars, so that may help some.

im going to try and pull off a blue/chrome scheme for my XXX buggy. i was thinking about masking the front of the body with some flame masks, using some of the alclad transparent blue paint and applying it to the back half. then i was gonna peel the mask, use the alclad chrome to back the blue while also painting the once before masked area with the chrome. i've also heard something about backing chrome finishes with some silver. will this make a difference? or does it have to be backed with some black?

i've included a picture of a similar design. do you think i can do this with only spray cans? if not, i have access to an airbrush just in case...

http://members.cox.net/dgraham225/chrome.jpg

by reading my procedures, does it look like im going (or painting :tongue: ) in the right direction? thanks for the help.

Danny

Hey, Im sure this is going to have something in it about what ur trying to do.

http://www.rctech.net/articles/painting_hauntedmyst.shtml

ED :freak:

Got an olderer but good working compressor and an ancient airbrush from the father-in-law. Thinking of buying a newer airbrush. I am a newbie, should I start with a single action or dual action model. What do you recomend to start with? Thanks Ralf :confused:

Get this:

I just got out my airbrush and compressor that have been sitting in a shed for a few years. I taped up a body and fed in some Pactra black laquer, unthinned. I couldn't get the thing to settle down. It spattered. I should have known better, but I pressed ahead... Somehow, I really dunno how, the thing made cotton-candy cobwebs of black paint. It wasn't enough to screw up the paint job, but was really annoying... I thinned down the paint and now it's working fine.

Anyone else ever had this happen?

What is "Fasescent"? It's not flourescent... is it? It's darker than the "Fasflourescent" paintss and has little particles swimming in it.

What is "Fasescent"? It's not flourescent... is it? It's darker than the "Fasflourescent" paintss and has little particles swimming in it.


It's their version of metallic.

So what are the "intense color change" paints mentioned on your website? Did they just replace the original Faschange, or what?

Was wondering if anyone on here had a Badger 360 Universal? I want to know if there is a larger color cup for the siphon feed mode.

wassup guys, i got a couple of questions. I'm about to paint my first body. i have always had them airbrushed up until now. im not a complete amature though, i've had alot of experience painting model cars, so that may help some.

im going to try and pull off a blue/chrome scheme for my XXX buggy. i was thinking about masking the front of the body with some flame masks, using some of the alclad transparent blue paint and applying it to the back half. then i was gonna peel the mask, use the alclad chrome to back the blue while also painting the once before masked area with the chrome. i've also heard something about backing chrome finishes with some silver. will this make a difference? or does it have to be backed with some black?

i've included a picture of a similar design. do you think i can do this with only spray cans? if not, i have access to an airbrush just in case...

http://members.cox.net/dgraham225/chrome.jpg

by reading my procedures, does it look like im going (or painting :tongue: ) in the right direction? thanks for the help.

Danny



hmmmmmmmmmm..... that pic sure looks familiar? flattery is the best form of imitation I guess :D

Alclad chrome is not available in spray cans, so you'l need to use an airbrush like I did..........

dgrahm225-

the body was painted with alclad chrome and spazstix colorchange paints,the chrome was painted first & backed with black, then the spazstix was applied and backed with black.

the spazstix paint changes from purple to blue to green, with a hint of gold in it at times. looks sweet!

I still haven't sold it lol.......... :D

haha, im glad you said something because i forgot which site i got that pic from, lol. it was purple in all of your pics, but i just photoshopped it to a blue.

im not gonna use the spaztix paints, im just gonna use Alclad's colors. do you know if they have the transparent blue in a spray can? i know the chrome does comes in a spray can, but not sure on the blue. if not, do you know any brands that DO carry the blue in a can? i know Testors does, but im not sure if it will stick to the lexan very well. if not, i have access to an airbrush, just trying to get past it without one.

so i should back the chrome with black right? i kinda figured that, but i have seen a couple of articles with the guys backing the Alclad chrome with silver with good results.

thanks for the help! :wave:

EDIT: Alclad does have the Chrome in a spray can, its on their site.

I'm not too sure about the blue in a spray can, but I'm not keen on using chrome from a can either. the pactra/testors r/c racing finish will work with the alclad using an airbrush, but I'm not sure about how compatible spray can paint would be.....

had to rib ya about the pic lol.......... it really does chnge to the color of blue like you have in the pic :D

i have airbrushed the aclad chrome on and backed with pactra can black and had great results.

Don :cool:

hey i need some advice. i am painting my body in candy blue and flor. yellow. both appear to be transparent on the body. should i spray a white backing coat before changing from blue to yellow. i am trying to prevent any color changes around the paint lines. or am i just anal about this.

thank you
matt :freak:

Mames- back the candy blue with indy silver to maintain a candy metallic look, then spray the yellow and back it with white.

( white backing will make candy blue look kinda like a sky blue )

Don- cool!!! been so long since I used cans for anything except a fuel proofing for water based paints!

jsbodies thank you for your help. hey is there an easy way to get paint off that ran past my masking ?

later
matt

Quick alclad question. Will any other brands work to tint the chrome? I was wondering what a lacquer candy blue or red would look like with Alclad backing.

Uhh-Duh, never mind. Just read a couple posts above, thanks!

thanks for the help JS. i may just go ahead and buy the transparent blue and chrome in the bottle to airbrush it.

when i get it done, ill post some pics up! :thumbsup:

Here is my latest.....tried to get it bright

http://renblastgraphics.com/portfolio/trucks/images/t004.jpg

Thats awsome. How long did it take?

ED :freak:

hey thank you for all the help. on elast qustion. what can i use to remove over spray on the out side of my body. any house hold items? or do i need paint thinner?

later
matt

I've never found anything that works well for laquers. I've tried thinner and rubbing alcohol and both fogged up the body's finish. For acrylics you can keep a wet rag handy and fix the mistake as soon as you make it.

Of course the best thing is to use bodies that come with overspray film, or mask the outside of the body.

thnaks you dan
. i was going to mask the out side of the body, but as you can tell i forgot/ rushed/go to excited about painting it.
and yes it is lacquer paint.
i had heard peolple mention a body wash but that does not sound right.

later
matt

I took a little bit of time.. :eek:

Take lacquer thinner and mix it 50/50 with rubbing alcohol and it won't cloud the lexan nearly as much and will still remove the overspray.

Another solution although more time consuming is to use turtle wax, it will take it right off.

How much does it cost to get a decent setup to do painting? Airbrush, paints, the whole lot of it.

ED :freak:

How much does it cost to get a decent setup to do painting? Airbrush, paints, the whole lot of it.

You can get started for less than $50 but it won't be good equipment. You should spend $100 or so and get a double-action brush. Paasche makes kits that sell for ~$65-70. Badgers and Iwatas cost a bit more. I really can't recommend the Testors line for R/C as I suspect the metallic paints will give it fits, but the others should be fine. I have this set (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDD38&P=0) and I like it fine.

For an air source you can start with aerosol propellant, which is $5-10/can. The fitting for this generally isn't included with the double-action sets on the assumption that you're using something better for air, too. The fitting costs ~$10.

Paints go for ~$4/bottle.

Of course bodies go for $15 to $30 depending on brand and size.

Remember this, it's good advice: buy the best tools you can afford. You'll never regret it. This goes for R/C tools, mechanics tools, airbrushes, whatever.

The set that u have looks cool. I am just wondering how much this stuff will cost when and if I do decide to paint. Can u use these brushes for other projects, like painting a bird house or something? The air compressors cost about 100?

ED :freak: