wow that would lokk sweet on a pan car body

What is new in the painting world? I am going to do a Viper body when I get the funds and the time. It will be similar to the Lexus. Maybe be a bit more creative.

And, I am painting my full sized car. Hehehe. It will be white with claret around the bottom and all the accessories (wiper blades, bumpers etc) will be claret as well.

James

A Viper ought to either be one solid color or have two wide, high-contrast stripes down the middle. Anything else would be just wrong.

Dan... lol :D here's a "wrong Viper" for ya!

Viper (http://www.jsbodies.com/JSB Viper2.jpg)

here is my own new personal body. I just can never decide :D

JS Bodies - "Sick and..."

OK Dan. I will see what I can do. I have some good 1 inch tape, so two stripes with that.

James

Thusly:

http://www.dodge-vipers.com/pictures/97gts.jpg

I'll have to settle for my zippy Subaru, but Gawd I'd love to have 500 hp and 500 ft-lb...

YEAH BABY !!!! some REAL street horsepower!:D sigh. a real one would be nice!

Ren- I know the feeling man! Nice truck though. You got the flames down so sweet..................

Yeah well. It is only $550,000AUD. Just think, if I don't eat, pay rent, spend anything, it will take me about 55 years to save up at the moment. I need a good job.

James

With the exchange rate that's about SIX times what it costs here. Are the import fees really so high?

I don't know. That is the price I saw in the paper. Pretty typical of cool stuff over here ($100 for a sport, unmatched 3000hv stick pack w/tamiya plugs.)

James

hey everyone. how's painting? I just tried out the new paRMA "FASFLIP" paint. it looks great! no fumes too. I was amazed at how well it looked compared to laquer based colors. It's basically the clear that's used to waterproof the body with color added into it along with a marble to help shake things up a bit before painting. you guy's should really give it a try. It will be on the pricey side though compared to the regular faskolor paints.

also, found out that the Spazstix black light rig works well with the water based flourescents too, but isn't quite as bright as Spaz's laquers are...... this set up is real sweet, but I haven't found a practical application yet besides cruising up & down the street at night. I think off road racing might be a bit rough on the old bulb?:D

Have yo got pics of the Fasflip?? Sounds cool

James

not yet, will try to get some up in the next few days.

The four or five bodies I have painted have all been done with cans. With mixed results. I want to graduate to an air brush.

Question #1: What is the difference between single and double action?

Question #2: The water based paints out there seem like a great alternative to the toxic stuff in the spray cans. How does one dilute these and what pressure would one use for them? Does that change with which brush you have? I picked up a basic Badger to experiement with...

Question #3 (well, the last one was really two, wasn't it?): I believe the paints I saw were Fascolors. They are labelled as Purple and Blue and such but they sure look off-white with a 'hint' of those colors. What is up with those? How does one use them, etc?

TIA! Chris

Originally posted by Dan the Man
A Viper ought to either be one solid color or have two wide, high-contrast stripes down the middle. Anything else would be just wrong.

I'd have to agree with you there, Dan...
Viper GTS Coupe, red with white stripes, it doesn't get much better than that.

Originally posted by ChrisHarris
Question #1: What is the difference between single and double action?

Double action gives you better control, but is a bit more work to keep clean.

Question #2: The water based paints out there seem like a great alternative to the toxic stuff in the spray cans. How does one dilute these and what pressure would one use for them? Does that change with which brush you have? I picked up a basic Badger to experiement with...Fascolor doesn't generally need thinned. I have used rubbing alcohol with some (non-Lexan) acryilics.

Pressure, well, it depends. Experiment and practice. 15-30 pounds will cover most anything, but that's a wide variation.

Question #3 (well, the last one was really two, wasn't it?): I believe the paints I saw were Fascolors. They are labelled as Purple and Blue and such but they sure look off-white with a 'hint' of those colors. What is up with those? How does one use them, etc?I've used a lot of Fascolor and never seen what you're talking about. Did you try shaking them? They may have been on the shelf a long time. Don't buy them unless they get to be a decent color when shaken.

Could they be the faschange ones??

James

Jb, sounds like you might have looked at parma's new fasflip(chromalusion style) colors. The colors are suspended in the clear coat that parma sells and must be well shaken before spraying. then back them with a dark color such as black or blue for a great result!

Originally posted by ChrisHarris
The four or five bodies I have painted have all been done with cans. With mixed results. I want to graduate to an air brush.

Question #1: What is the difference between single and double action?



With Single Action, it requires a single action to spray. You push down the button and both air and paint come out. With double action, you push down to start the airflow and pull back to adjust how much paint comes out. A single action is initially easier to work with but will limit you in terms of fades. Double action allows much finer control. Make the jump and just get a double action right away.

Originally posted by ChrisHarris
Question #2: The water based paints out there seem like a great alternative to the toxic stuff in the spray cans. How does one dilute these and what pressure would one use for them? Does that change with which brush you have? I picked up a basic Badger to experiement with...

You dilute or thin the Parma Fascolors and Pactra Acryls paints with water. Parma recommends about a tablespoon per bottle when they need it but they rarely need it. As for pressure, experiment. Parma says they should be sprayed between 40 and 70 psi. I've shot them as low as 30 and as high as 110. Your brush make a slight difference in the pressure. My Azteks need to be cranked on high, my Iwatas spray nicely at a lower pressure.


Originally posted by ChrisHarris
Question #3 (well, the last one was really two, wasn't it?): I believe the paints I saw were Fascolors. They are labelled as Purple and Blue and such but they sure look off-white with a 'hint' of those colors. What is up with those? How does one use them, etc?
TIA! Chris

Those were Parmas Faschange paints. It was their first attempt at color changing paint. True color change paint (like Spaz Stix color change) changes color depending on the angle of the light striking it. At one angle the car looks blue, at another green or purple. The Parma Faschange is more of a high light change paint. The car is, for example, red and then when the light strikes it, it will have a slight color change on the highlighted area, like blue.

While there are many ways to apply this stuff and I would invite you to experiment with different thick nesses and backing colors, there is a classic way is to use this paint. Let's assume you want a white car with blue high light color changing effects.

1. Take the prepped body and with the Faschange Blue paint in your airbrush with a fine nozzle and the compressor cranked on high, apply a very ONE thin coat of the Faschange paint. When you are spraying, go slow and make it even. Don't go back over areas or you risk putting on too much which will muddy the main body color. The general rule is, when it looks milky, you have applied too much.
2. Use a hairdryer to dry the first coat and wait 30 minutes.
3. Flush your airbrush out with water to keep the paint from drying in the brush.
4. Apply the main white body color. Simply spray this as you would a one color paint job, with 3 to 4 coats of white Faskolor paint
5. Back it with a coat of silver.
6. Finish the body as you normally would. To see it change colors, take it out in the sun.



For more information on airbrush painting R/C cars, go here (http://www.rctech.net/articles/painting_hauntedmyst.shtml)

Thanks for all the input. I am pretty sure the stuff I saw was, indeed, the Faschange. I will be back at the track tonight and check again. I suspected it was a first coat sort of thing but there wasn't any sort of instruction as to what to do with it!

Just got a new (less used) truck last night so I have no choice but to do up a body! Can't wait!

Chris

http://socal.rcracing.com/Images//jroberts2.jpg http://socal.rcracing.com/Images//jroberts1.jpg

Wow. They look awesome.

James

How do you do the window outlines? Is it paint or is it a tape-like trim?
thanks
Jake

Jake,
it is painted on...just cut out the trim on your wondow masks and paint away!

charlie b

Charlie, you are just SICK!!!!

Ever going to come back up to Salinas?

Art

Hey ART!!! WHats ur schedule like for Dec/Jan? I will be off school for x mas break.

charlie b

Hi, I have ben having trouble getting the chrome paint to stick to my bodies. I have painted the front of some of my touring car bodies in chrome, and after a couple of smacks on the boards, the chrome starts to chip of. I have put it on in thick coats and light coats and I always back it with faskolor black, and it always seems to chip off.

Any help would be great.

I don't back mine at all anymore and have had 0 complaints

I've found the Chromes to be the most sensitive of all the paints I've ever painted. Chrome doesn't react well to any soap, release agents, or dirt on the body. I find even the smallest of residue will affect it, so your best bet is to wipe the area down with high alcohol content iso alcohol before you spray it and then hit the area with a hair dryer to make sure its extra dry. Also, chrome needs to be sprayed very thinly and a the tendancy is to want to see it as you spray the way you do with fascolors so people usually apply it too thick. People like JS, Charlie and Ren as used to working slow with this stuff and thats the best way to get good results with it. Also, make sure its not only dry, but cured before you back it. If you follow those 3 steps, you should have good results with it. On a personal note, I think Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome sprays more evenly and dries quicker then Alclad so I am more used to spray that then the Alcad.

Thanks for all the help guys.

Renblast, the problem I have with not backing it with anything, is that that when fuel from nitro cars hits it, it just eats the chrome right off the body.

I clean my bodys with denatured alcohol before I spray the chrome, but they still chip. They only chip though on my touring car bodies, could it just be though that the chrome is not a flexable type of paint.

The chrome also only chips, when I spray the front of the touring car bodies, and it does not chip anyware else on the body, but just the front.

Planet Honda-

I have had a few problems with the chrome too.It's all in the prep like HM said, but the key is really in the dry time, at least 24hrs. before backing it. Isopropyl alcohol is more concentrated than denatured alcohol, so it does clean a bit better (except for the smell) and evaporates just as quick.

Thanks for the help JS, I will try and let it dry longer before backing it.

Does backing it with lacquer based paint over water based paint have any effect on the chrome paint at all, as far as haveing it stick better to the body?

not that I know of............. I usually spray my chrome graphics first, then paint the rest of the graphics with water based paints after backing it with black. I've found that backing it with laquer based black works well too.

Talked to HM on the phone last week about liquid mask tips, and thought I would share these with you guys and with a few other painting threads I frequent.



Tips to get even graphics on both sides of the body.....


(1) For masking tape, lay out your tape in overlapping strips on a sheet of glass or self healing cutting mat. using typing paper , draw out your design, and then trace it on the back side of the paper also as you will need both sides.


(2) Place a sheet of carbon paper over the masking tape, place a piece of typing paper on top of it, and re-trace your design on the typing paper and it will transfer to the tape.


(3) Cut out your design on the glass/cutting matt, weed it out, and you have your graphics for one side.

(4) Reverse the typing paper to the other side and lay down over new masking tape to get the reverse graphics for the other side.


This also works will with vinyl too! in place of masking tape...


For liquid mask........

(1) Draw your design onto tracing paper for use with liquid mask........ you'll be able to easily transfer your design from one side to the other due to the transparency of the paper, and just retrace it on the outside of the body on each side with a fine point sharpie.

(2) Draw your design on one side of the body. Using tracing paper, trace over the design on the outside, noting wheel well marks and window openings with small guide marks.


(3) place the traced design on the opposite side of the body on the inside of the body, lining it up using the guide marks for the windows and fender wells, etc. Your graphics will be reversed on the paer but due to it's transparency you will be able to see right through it.

(4) Trace out your design on the body with a sharpie and you are done!



*I tie just about all of my graphics in free hand across the hood of my bodies, but you can draw half of the graphics that you want on tracing paper, fold it in half, and trace them again on the back side. When you unfold the tracing paper, you will an even set of graphics for your hood that meet perfectly in the middle!

Hi,
I was reading all of your messages and I was wondering what a "liquid mask" is because I have painted about 6 bodies and I'm getting better and better at it.



Thankz,
Nate :devil:

Liquid mask is a liquid rubber. You paint it on to the inside of your car with 4 thick coats. When it dries, it dries as a rubbery coating and then you simply cut out the design you want in it with a Xacto knife and peel that section out. Bob Dively's is the best.


http://www.rctech.net/articles/painting_hauntedmyst_graphics/pic02.jpg

Hey all I have a problem that I hope I can get some ideas on. I have a Paasche VL (dual action siphon feed) and it sputters like a machine gun when Im trying to use it. I thought the paint was too thick orginally so I cleaned the brush real good and then put a bottle of water on it. It even sputtered with the water, tried different tips and needles and the larger opening needle tip helped it some but I really dont think it should be doing it especially with water. I varied the pressure from 20 to 40 psi still did it.

I went back to my trusty Paasche H (single action siphon feed) and didnt have a single problem.

Any ideas?

When you cleaned it, did you tear it down? I find some of the smaller passages hard to clean, and have to disassemble more than I like to keep things clean.

Also, did you check for any bent or dinged parts near the nozzle?

I cleaned it out real good, I didnt see any damaged parts.

Im new to a dual action brush so am unsure of how to fix things like I am with my single action. Im thinking maybe I have something way out of adjustment?

Just bought some of this to try.The label recomends backing with black.I'm wondering if you back with another color,purple for example will the chrome take on a purple hue?

Merry Xmas everyone,
Been ages since i've been on here, thought i'd pop in and say hello.

Bob, you can back chrome with any colour you like, purple would be a good colour to back it with to get a hint of that colour in there, although i think you have to apply the chrome lightly for it to be noticable.
my suggestion would be to try it before doing anything on the shell, see what the end result is, maybe change the process and try again until you either have something you like, or dont bother if its not as you expected.

Here's a couple of pics of my last few shells, I actually did them all in the same week, and the fact that they all have a Union Jack theme was completely co-incidental!

http://www.spazstix.com/gallery/HPI/astra/9.jpg
***More Astra photos here*** (http://www.spazstix.com/gallery/HPI/astra/astra.htm)

http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=69
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=75
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=70
hmmm, not sure why they wont allow me to show them with the [img] tag.

PaulC2K

How simple is this...I had the front aircap on the airbrush screwed on finger tight but that wasnt tight enough, used the wrench and it solved both problems. DOH!

Here we go. My latest attempt. Getting annoyed with tape, I think I will get some liquid mask.

http://www.geocities.com/anakist_rc/Viper1.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/anakist_rc/Viper2.jpg

James

I'm new to the body painting aspect of R/C cars. I've painted a few with cans and most recently with an airbrush but they have all been single colors and slap on the decals. I now want to try more "exotic" (for me!) painting schemes for my bodies. I am not an artist and have a hard time visualizing things prior to trying them. I was curious if there is an availiable source of templates for various car bodies that you could print out on paper and sketch on various designs and color schemes to see how things look before you screw up a $20 piece of lexan. What do you non-artist types use to visualize your designs prior to committing them to lexan. I will use pictures of other peoples bodies to help me as a guide but I want something a little more individualized. If I could find some sort of template that I coud make copies of to sketch in and try various options, it would be great.

Calvin- can't help ya...... no one makes r/c specific templates, but it's a good idea!



Here's my daughters micro sporting a VW body.........


buggin.......... (http://www.jsbodies.com/vw001.JPG)


buggin.......... (http://www.jsbodies.com/vw002.JPG)


buggin.......... (http://www.jsbodies.com/vw003.JPG)

That is brilliant!!
It looks like so much fun!

It looks like a bodyshell that would come with the car, and thats a compliment not a put-down btw! It looks spot on!

PaulC2K

Paul, thanks!