I've shot lots of Fasglitter with my Paasche airbrush, and here's what I do- I remove the needle completely, and just blast away at 80 psi without it. I found that even with the largest needle, it clogs almost immediately. Keep in mind that a little goes a long way, and if you lay it on too thick, it tends to muddy up your backing colors. I usually start by masking out my details first, then hilight around the details using a transparent color (createx), then remove my needle and hit it with the fasglitter. Then I spray on my backing colors before I remove my masking and do the details. The glitter shows up well under the transparent colors. I tend to use either the silver or pearl glitter, pearl under cool colors and silver under warm colors. Just remember to wear your nuisance mask, or you'll be smelling the stuff and blowing it out of your nose for a week. Always shake the bottle thoroughly and shoot it right away. (I almost always use my detail cup, it has less time to settle) I've had great luck using the glitter this way, and found that it tends to blow the judges away during concours competitions.

Wanting to paint a body bright orange, with darker blue accent color ( paint mask) What would I back up the lighter color with, so my blue does not bleed through, or is this possible. I need the main part of the body light, because of inside track with so so lighting. Thanks for any advice.

DS

KC-fan........

What type of paint are you using? If laquer based paint ( pactra ) try backing the light orange with white as ususal and then a couple coats of indy silver to back the white and prevent bleed through of the blue. Then spray the blue in light coats allowing plenty of time between them to dry. Back the blue with silver also if needed.

If your using spray cans, be very patient.... you can mess up real quick if the coats are sprayed too heavy and each one is not dry before the next is applied.

If your using the Parma Faskolor paints in an airbrush, it won't be a problem if you want to spray the blue last. When dry completely, they will not bleed throuh each other but just make sure to back the orange with white anyway.


hope this helps.........

wow.. haven't been here since January? well, looks like you'll be seeing more of me here... I'm going back to painting full time again !

Good to see you back and painting full time again!

Hey Hank! The hobbyshop thing has played out for me- closing my store and track. hopefully someone else will step in that can do bigger and better things..

going back to what I do best lol......... now If I can just unload 20K of merchandise....

There is always the Swap and Sell ;)

Just a thought from a slotcar painter, laquer and water base paints work well with each other, just need to have one dry before spraying the next. Try thinning the water base with dye free windex, takes very small amounts to get a great job. I use bottled Nitrogen and NEVER wash the bodies before paint is applied, upwards of 60# for water base (older Binks gun with large tip),30 or 40# for laquer (cheap brush), lots less room to work with on 24th scale or 32nd scale, even do some great flame jobs on HO. Problem we have is weight, bodies are 4 grams clear, if done right you can have 3 or 4 colors and only add 1 or 2 grams, unless we go for inside stickers, then you get another 2 or 3 grams stuck on. I have tried many different brands with no problems, using House of Color (nice) Spaztick (pretty good) and Alclad (Great), all are pretty pricy for doing RC bodies, you can eat up some bucks by the time you finish, but the customer sure is happy. Anyway just reading along and thought I'd add my 2 cents. :dude: