I think you can get the retarder from either coast airbrush or bearair...Both places are great to deal with.

The Parma paint works better than the normal createx paints. The createx autoair works great but it's a little pricy in small quantities.

I understand FasGlitter by Parma is a real mess and you need
to mask everything that will not get a glitter coat first as well
as use a very high pressure. I have an old Testors dual/single
action airbrush with most of the tips and plan on using the 1.02mm
Yellow tip and start with 60psi and work up.
I think I read or heard of someone using a Badger 250 without the needle to spray FasGlitter.
I intend on spraying one moderate coat of the glitter on the body and
then backing with some FasKolor.

Any and all advice for this use would be appreciated.

Thanks!

RAFster: Can't agree about FasGlitter being a mess. Yes, you have to plan your masking so it's a bit tricky if you want two colors backing the FasGlitter; you'd have to spray two separate FasGlitter coats:

FasGlitter
First color (remove masking)
FasGlitter
Second color.

I use a Paashe type H, single action, external mix. Because of my pressure switch (Sears water pump switch), I'm pretty limited in pressure: 25-30 psi is about as high as I can go. So very high pressure is not necessary.

Where is a good on line site to but paint and supplies? Just got a new air brush! Thanks Ralf

I hope this hasn't been addressed already- and I apoligize if it has, jsut don't have the time to read all six thousand pages of this thread. ;)

I saw a body at the track a while back where the whole front end was chrome. There is a guy asking after that stuff on the Traxxas page and I am trying to find out who makes the stuff. Thanks in advance!

both Spaztix and Alclad II make a chrome for Lexan. i have never used the spaztix, but i have used the Alclad and it goes on like any other lacquer with awesome results. :)

I hope this hasn't been addressed already- and I apoligize if it has, jsut don't have the time to read all six thousand pages of this thread. ;)

I saw a body at the track a while back where the whole front end was chrome. There is a guy asking after that stuff on the Traxxas page and I am trying to find out who makes the stuff. Thanks in advance!

There are only 16 pages as I see it...

The chrome effect can be had using Alclad II Chrome Lacquers A107 or A407 (4 ounce) or Spaxstix's chrome #CR5000.

I am prone to hyperbole on many occasions. Well, OK, maybe most. No, ALL THE TIME!! ;) ;)

Is there any way to remove Parma Fascolor paint from a lexan body so it can be re-painted. Thanks Ralf :cool:

i have sprayed it with warm water or a water hose and washed it off before but it was fresh painted.

Usually, if the Parma paint dries completely, it etches into the lexan and leaves a haze (with a tint of color) if you clean it off.

If it's really fresh, you can usually wash it off and be ok.

New Paint

http://home.attbi.com/~johnhauser/Alfa_Swirl_Left.jpg

http://home.attbi.com/~johnhauser/Alfa_Swirl_Right.jpg

http://home.attbi.com/~johnhauser/Alfa_Swirl_Top.jpg

As usual, you are up to your excellent paint work.
Very nice Alfa!
Is that FasKolor or Pactra or SpazStix, etc?
Alclad II or SpazStix on the chrome?

Some fellow racers complain the chrome isn't very durable
racing if they hit the occassional pipe/board racing.
Some racers never hit a board and they don't have the problem...
:jest:

Anyone have any suggestions for improving durability?

Thanks!

Thank you! That is all Faskolor except for the silver, which is Pacta Indy Silver.

As for chrome, its very sensitive to sloppy work, including not washing the body completely. Also, lots of people spray chrome on way to heavy and then it doesn't stick when. When you spray it, "dry" spray it, so you are far enough away from the body (about 12 to 15 inches) so that it's nearly dry by the time it hits hit.

HM: You paint before trimming and drilling post holes? Don't you find lining up the wheel wells & body holes difficult that way?

That body is for a friend and it has the post holes marked on it.

fricken sweet paint job myst...... looks like a killer job

where do you get your inspiration for the paint jobs?

With regard to the holographic paint.....

Can you see any holographic effect under lights? I mostly race under lights in a parking lot and was considering trying a holgraphic flame job.

Thanks

Thanks Klowne! Inspiration comes really from anywhere. For this one, I wanted to try to so something with big sweeping lines since I'm not very good at them.


Moose,

The holographic paint really works best under bright direct sun light. I don't think you'd be happy with it under any other kind of light.

Moose,

The SpazStiks Xtreme Glow and Ultra Violent paint would work well if you wanted to invest in one of the UV light kits for you car. Sounds like you race at night.
You can get some wild effects from SpazStik's line with glow enhancers.

i am going to start airbrushing my own bodies. for a beginner what would be a good dual action airbrush to start with. thanks

Of the 3 or so popular airbrushes I have tried (Paasche VL, Badger 155, 150, Faskolor F1) I have found for Faskolor paints, the F1 is the best.

Best= easiest to clean, sprays thick water based paint evenly, sprays thin lines to large areas with a flip of the tip and its dual action. It comes with bottle adapters so you can just screw a FAskolor bottle to it.

Check it out-I cannot see how you could be dissapointed with it.

What kind of air pressure are you using for the Fascolor paints, and do you thin them down? A newbie with no idea! The local hs that sold me the paints said to use them straight out of the bottle at 60 psi. Thanks Ralf :confused:

Ralf,

With the F1 brush, I spray Faskolor anywhere from 20 to 60 psi without any problems. I usually spray at 60 psi for whites and neons in wide spray patterns for base coloring. For fades and up close shadowing I usually spray lower at 30 psi or so. Depends on what I am doing. I hope that helps some,
Ray

thanks ray i am going to check it out. later :thumbsup:

i am going to start airbrushing my own bodies. for a beginner what would be a good dual action airbrush to start with. thanks


In addition to the F1, I'd highly recommend you look at an Iwata Revolution airbrush. It's cheaper (about $50 to $60) then the Faskolor F1 and better made. The F1 is a rebadged Badger. The Iwata super easy to clean and sprays very nicely. Nearly every pro r/c painter I know uses Iwata.

A top feed brush like the Revolution is easier to clean because you can just clean out the cup and run some thinner (or water) thru.

I borrowed a Parma brush and compressor from the Parma guys at Cleveland last year and it worked great. The F1 seems to work better than my Iwata with the Fascolor paints. I can shoot Fascolor thru both brushes down to about 25 PSI with good results.

Ray, Tell the Parma guys to look into getting some retarder for their paint (it would be a great product to sell). It helps keep the tip from clogging when you're doing detail work. No more gobs of paint on your work.

Createx retarder works on the Fascolor paints.

3 drops per ounce...or less.

http://socal.rcracing.com/Images//silva1.jpg
http://socal.rcracing.com/Images//silva3.jpg

http://socal.rcracing.com/Images//silva4.jpg
http://socal.rcracing.com/Images//silva2.jpg

Nice paint!

Charlie B has some top drawer examples again...The Revolution must be one nice airbrush...
Having the skills of Charlie B using it doesn't hurt it one bit either.
:D

Very nice examples... The white flames with a red car isn't something often seen but it works nicely. That kaleidoscope of colors makes it kick. The orange checkerboard floating away is a cool effect...I really like that.
The Silva 3 (2002 Monte Carlo) with the haunted face in the purple on the side along with the depth of colors is incredible.

Profiling it against a Volvo 240 wagon that is vintage 1975-1979 isn't very commonly seen. I wonder how many miles on the grey old beast?
We have three Volvos: a '66 122S (red 2 door 335K km), a '83 245DL (dk. green wagon 279K miles), and '91 244DL (white four door sedan 236K miles). I retired an '82 244DL (bright red 275K miles retired at 21 yrs of age [9/81 build date] due to rust, wiring and fuel distributor problems.)

is fastkolor paint ready to spray straight from the bottle? i have an older Paasche dual action, any tips on air presure, trimmming, outlining, etc. thanks fellas

is fastkolor paint ready to spray straight from the bottle? i have an older Paasche dual action, any tips on air presure, trimmming, outlining, etc. thanks fellas

Yes, it usually can be sprayed directly, but you have to use a lot of air pressure to spray fastkolor paint. 50 to 100 psi on some airbrushes. Definitely not air cans for supply and some airbrush compressors won't supply those kinds of pressures steadily.

Sounds like your airbrush might be a VL model. I looked at that one when I bought my Testor's Aztec about 6 years ago. I went with the Testors because of the easy cleanup.
With my Testors I've had to use 60psi on a few of the colors. I started playing with the FasGlitter and it is some wierd stuff to work with...I've just started using the Parma FastKolor paints in the past month. I've used Pactra Acrylics and before that their polycarbonate line...

I like the Acrylics low odor and easy cleanup.

The Iwata Revolution sounds like a very nice airbrush and CharlieB sure knows how to use one as you can see a few postings back...

David

thanks for the info, i guess trial and error is the way to go. one more thing, to do a fine point do you use more or less air pressure, like to draw flames.

Hi Gang, :wave:

Just got in an order of Spaz-Stiz paint and tried it for the first time.

My plan was to use the color change paint with radio active paint as highlights. I usually race about an hour in the sun and then a couple after the sun goes down. Think it will make a nice effect.

The color change Red/Orange/Purple went on with out a hitch. Looked best for me at around 7 light coats and with black multi-backer. Beautiful color shift and nice coverage. I screwed up on a corner with too heavy of a coat, but the black backer made it look good again.

I do however have a problem with the Radio Active Orange/Red. First, it looks like peach in the bottle. Second, I kept adding coat after coat trying to get it dark enough. After about 10 coats progressively heavier, I gave up and put the glow enhancer coat on. In light the color looks like a pale orange creamsicle and in the dark it has a very slight glow and even a lighter color.

Where did I go wrong here? I gave the bottle a good shaking and went through a whole detail cup of paint on a 3/4 x 2 test strip. How can I make this paint red/orange instead of pale orange?

Did I see someone mention that there are airbrush adaptors available for these bottles? The paint came mostly in smaller neck plastic bottles, but the radioactive is in a glass large mouth bottle with a paint brush attached to the cap.

Thanks!

need an new air brush any suggestions. dual action for around $50-$60. and should i get gravity or siphon. thanks

Get an Iwata Revolution from Dixie Art (http://www.dixieart.com/Iwata_Revolution_Airbrushes.html) for $59.00. Order the right hose when you order the brush. Gravity or siphon is a personal choice. I like the gravity for spraying faskolors, the siphon for spraying lacquers for no other reason that the gravity is easier to clean with faskolors and the siphon is easiest to clean with lacquers.

thanks Haunted myst, i like that airbrush and i think i will go with gravity feed for now. later :thumbsup:

can tips and needles of different brands interchange. say a badger to a paasche. thanks

Bigmooseracer,

I've tried the glow in the dark paints with varrying degrees of success. I'll bet that the glow in the dark paint that you're using isn't opaque so when you put the glow enhancer on it shows thru the red washing it out to a cruddy orange or pink. Try backing it with a dark color (Try red, blue, and black) If the paint acts like a candy color, the backing coats will make different effects. Try it out on a scrap and see what it does.

Red should keep it somewhat red, Blue will turn purple (red at night), and black will make it dissapear (until night)

You really have to hoze it down on the body for it to really work well because the RC stuff isn't as bright as the automotive stuff.

i am new to this so bear with me. i know you put your darkest colors down first. but i have three that i am not sure of. i have yellow, silver pearl, and green turqoius( i think that is how you spell it) which would i put down first. thanks :wave:

i am new to this so bear with me. i know you put your darkest colors down first. but i have three that i am not sure of. i have yellow, silver pearl, and green turqoius( i think that is how you spell it) which would i put down first. thanks :wave:

Were I spraying it I would spray green turquoise first. Then depending on how opaque the green I would either back it with silver or white and depending on what tint you want it to take. You have to see the body in sunlight to get a good idea of the color change between the two backing coats. A fluorescent or incadescent bulb won't give you the full spectrum of sunlight. If you race inside under Fluorescent or High Pressure Sodiums then the paint job will look different than outside.

Then I would spray the yellow and then go to the silver pearl. I like backing a very light bright yellow with silver pearl better than white..more sparkle. Lots of folks put too much paint on the body
when they are starting out painting. Sometimes I'm still guilty
of it several years later.

One of the racers in our club has been using Pactra's Transparent colors of Trans. Blue, Trans. Red, Trans. Yellow, etc and then backing it with Alclad II chrome for some pretty spectacular colors.

Another one of the guys in our club who is talented with an airbrush, Blake (2braindesigns), has been playing with using Alclad on a body after scotchbriting in a single direction. Masking the body and then scotchbriting that panel for a brushed aluminum effect. I guess it would come in handy for a Tmaxx body or used in some areas for other effects. With the proper amount of patience and time you could cause the body to have the effect of different panels of orientation of brushed aluminum.

thanks Rafster that is what i was thinking. i dont have white right now so i am going to back it with silver. thanks again

http://socal.rcracing.com/Images//HITEC.jpg

i like that, the use of colors and the way they flow together, sweeeettt. good job, did you do it. :thumbsup:

Long time , no see everyone! Nice work Charlie!!!! been too busy sling'n paint and runnin my shop for much else,but here's one I just finished up for a new mag due out soon..........

http://www.jsbodies.com/pyro01.JPG


http://www.jsbodies.com/pyro02.JPG

Same to you Josh! Can't wait to see the new mag!

lol Charlie.... I think you got me mixed up with Josh Thiel, his work rocks!!! Thanks though!!!!

i have yellow and neon red i need to put some backing on. are there any other colors besides silver and white to back with. thanks