Now that I have my track underway pretty well,I've been able to spend some time tinkering around with some of the "new" cars I missed out on while I was away from the slot car hobby.I am pretty good with the tjet motor type cars,as I messed with those endlessly as a kid.
The inline cars are sort of new to me,but I seem to be catching on fast.

I got a dozen or so of the G Plus cars that came with the sets that I bought.Right out of the baggie,these things rip!!!!! I have one Mercedes that I have taken a liking to,and just messing around with it I got it to go pretty good.It's actually even faster then my Wizzard cars.

So I am thinking of getting one of the RTR G Plus BSRT cars,but I am wondering.How much faster can one of these go then my tweaked stock G Plus car????I can barely keep this one on the track
Seems like with the Wizzards the speed gain comes from the stronger traction magnets,which allow me to take the turns much faster and get better lap times.Is it the same with the RTR cars???? Would I be better off just investing in some parts for my stock cars???

Mike

I'll assume you mean the Tomy Super G+ cars (SG+) and not Aurora G-Plus.

The hop-up routine for the Tomy SG+ (and just about any box stock car including Tyco, Patriot, Life-Like, etc.) follows the same starting formula:

1) Better rear wheels and tires
2) Ride height optimization
3) Tweaked gearing
4) Tweaked electricals
5) Lightweight body
6) Independent front end

Apply this formula at the most basic level to the Tomy SG+:

1) Use dual flange rear hubs and silicone slip-on tires (or use a Tyco rear axle and wheels).
2) Use lower profile tire to get the traction magnets closer to the rails.
3) Use a 7/23 gear ratio if the track is reasonably long, If it's a short track stick with the stock 7/25.
4) Adjust the electricals: (trial and error)
- Use ski shoes or limited travel shoes
- Bend the shoe hangers forward to allow lower ride height and tighter fit
- Increase shoe tension by stretching the shoe springs slightly.
- Tweak the endbell for better brush contact
- Advance the timing all the way
5) Use the lightest hard body you can find or use a lexan body (lexan requires the installation of special body mounting posts)
6) Install an independent front end kit for the Tomy SG+.

Higher levels of performance involve using higher performance parts in the formula, like silicone sponge tires, silver electricals, and more tweaking and testing. Yes, you can install stronger magnets and a hotter arm but doing this usually makes everything much more expensive and bumps you into another level of racing.

Incidently, the Tomy SG+ is a fast car but it uses traction magnets that are not allowed by most organized racing groups. The Patriot, G3, T1 etc., all use ceramic magnets. All of those cars respond very well to the same changes listed above.

There is another hop-up tip that bears mention, and it's the one that probably has the biggest impact but can end up being very expensive:

7) Parts selection

No two parts are exactly the same, by design and/or by chance. If you are allowed to run SG+ cars with any stock magnets the older gray traction magnets are usually much stronger. The stock gray gears are more durable and smoother than the black ones. There are 2 chassis types, the #1 and the #2. Look for the number on the top front of the chassis between the front wheels. The #1 has even front axle holes and the traction magnets sit slightly lower and flusher with the bottom of the chassis for better handling. But the #2 chassis can be faster down the straights due to less downforce. The "by chance" parts selection involves comparative discovery and testing of the same parts, usually armatures, to find the ones that are naturally better than the rest. This is often due to an arm being naturally better balanced or having a slightly lower winding resistance. Some racers buy dozens or more stock arms to find the ones that are better than average. This practice can be very expensive. When you hear the term "hot stock arm" it theoretically implies that the manufacturer has tested and found the arm to be better than average. But in practice it usually means that the manufacturer has balanced an average to above average arm.

Lastly, in my opinion, one of the best things you can do with a Tomy SG+ is to change its chassis to a BSRT G3. The G3 is much more durable and better designed chassis than the SG+. It can be run much lower and when equipped with ceramic traction magnets you can run it in the superstock (SS) class anywhere, something that most groups won't allow you to do with a SG+. For home racing you can move all of your SG+ parts over to the G3, including the SG+ traction magnets by using the included spacer material. I expect that you will convert at least some of your SG+ cars to G3 because the newer SG+ chassis break quite easily and you'll want to reuse the parts in a sturdier platform. The BSRT G3 chassis with magnet clip and spacer material is about the best $7.00 you'll ever spend on a SG+.

Thanks for the tips.Aside from upgrading parts,I have done pretty much every tweak possible.The result is an ungodly fast Super G+,even faster then any of the Wizzards I have.

Definetly going to pick up a chassis or two,and I cut some tires down and measured them so I know what diameter works best on my track.Need to pick up some gears as well.

Of the 12 cars I got in the track sets I bought,all are fast,with 5 or so that are out of control fast.

Next weekend they are having a SHORS SS and RO race at one of the local hobby shops,I plan on going there to get an idea of how some REALLY fast cars run.Should put me in my place pretty quickly I imagine.

I love running all types of cars.But when you run one of these super fast cars and get a groove going,it can be quite relaxing.I'm really enjoying running these and getting caught up on what I missed out on.

Mike

Oh yeah Mike, welcome to Club Fast. Wait 'till you see the SS cars on a big track and the ROs are totally out of sight. Once you get used to the speed you really start to realize how competitive and intensely fun this form of racing is with these cars. You should see quite a few hot T1s at the SHORS race and maybe a few G3s and Storms. You won't see any SG+ cars, they've been obsoleted by most of the major racing organizations becuase of their non ceramic magnets. Plus, too many of them are not durable enough to hold up to racing.

I'm surprised that you can't get your Wizzard cars to outperform some or even all of your SG+ cars. The newer Wizzard cars, especially the Scorpion and the Storm, can easily be tuned to outrun a SG+. You should be asking about how to tweak your Patriot cars.

I got the Wizzard to keep up with the G+.The Storm outperforms the G in the turns.The Storm seems to need motor brush adjustments quite often to stay on top tho.

The Storm feels much more precision to run then the stock cars I have tuned up.I can "feel" the Storm much better then the other cars I am running.

I have my eye on a Slottech Panther SS as my next car.I think from what I read it would be a good car for me to get started out with and continue my learning process.I will probably grab a G3 as well.

My son and I are looking forward to being spectators at "the big race" next Saturday.
He thinks that what we have is as fast as it gets.I keep telling him to wait until next week,that he will come away from the race with a whole different idea of what fast really is.

Mike

My suggestion would be a Slottech Thunder cat instead of the panther, its his newer of the 2 an very nice

Goodwrench...

Actually,that was the one I have my eye on.I mixed up my cats for a minute there.

Thanks for the tip.It's good to know that someone thinks I am on the right track.

Mike

All of the Tyco derived chassis (Panther, ThunderCat, Patriots) do require a certain amount of twiddling with brushes to stay in top form. I've found that the bigfoot brushes in the Storm do last longer and require a little less tweaking than the standard ones even though you don't really need bigfoots for SS. The Patriots also require very careful attention to shoe tension.

I'm assuming that you are not running your Patriots with their stock gears, wheels, and tires. You need to run at least dual flange hubs with silicones or silicone sponge tires. I use a 7/23 or 7/22 gear ratio on the Storm, usually with BSRT pinions and Slottech crowns.

The Slottech chassis do appear to be very expensive compared to the G3 and the Storm. But once you add all of the parts to the G3 and Storm to bring it up to the same level as the ThunderCat the price difference is minimal. Realistically you should expect to spend at least $100 to bring any of the big 3 up to SS form.

The basic slottech S.S. t1 kit will run you $65, I personally would go for the Pro S.S. kit for $85, you get matched mags, bigfoot brushes an a axle retainer( a must for serious racing, never loose that rear axle again) an a few other goodies, well worth the extra $20 IMO :D

Next weekend they are having a SHORS SS and RO race at one of the local hobby shops,I plan on going there to get an idea of how some REALLY fast cars run.Should put me in my place pretty quickly I imagine.


Mike

GO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! you will see some of the best racing ever at one of these events as well as some very experianced racers that will be willing to give you hints an help if you ask, SHORS is top notch

I see you just joined "The shark Tank" (Q Continuum's forum) A Fore warning, its VERY Political over there hehe, they just get TOOOOOO carried away over some sh*t

You must be reading my mind or something.I had planned on the SS Pro kit.Soon as the dough starts rolling in from epay I plan on getting one to bounce off the basement walls.

I've been lurking on the "shark tank"(lol) for a LONG time!!!!!! This is pretty much the only slot place that I participate in,but I have some things that I am messing around with that I would like to pick their brains on.Plus,I know that some of the locals hang there,and I'd really like to get out of the basement and do a little racin'.

See ya in the tank!!!!!!

Mike