What kind of detail are you getting with.030? That thickness is about the same as a thin resin cast body. You might be better off using that to make dare I say it full fendered bodies that don't have all the sharp angles that your sprint car has. BTW.. I was approached about building a routed HO dirt oval 4x12 for Summit Speedway. They already have the 18 volt adjustable power supply and the scoring system. It looks like as soon as I can get someone to make it they will supply all the materials to do it. Would you be interested in being a body supplier? Call me at home some time. M00SE

What kind of detail are you getting with.030? That thickness is about the same as a thin resin cast body. You might be better off using that to make dare I say it full fendered bodies that don't have all the sharp angles that your sprint car has.
M00SE

Hi Moose,
http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/440_030_02.jpg

I would have to say at least as good as the thin stuff... if not better!

The thicker material seems to soak the heat deeper into the plastic,as it takes a few seconds longer to heat,and this allows the material to form into every little crevice.

I know that the picture is a little blurry but if you look close enough you can see the header,side panel,and pitman arm.

The thicker material does have it's own drawbacks,because it takes longer to heat up, it is easy to overheat and it will blister and get pinholes like a resin body. Also you have the weight factor to consider, it is 3 to 5 times thicker than conventional lexan bodies... for a Tiny Sprint Car Body it might not be too bad, but something bigger like a Dirt Late Model or NASCAR :freak: may be to heavy? Maybe .020 for those?
Zig

What's better, thick or thin ???

Here's what I think,
I've built quite a few lexan Sprint and Indy cars over the years, and to be quite honest I never really liked the .005" thick bodies for one reason...

You spend a lot of time trimming them out just right, carefully paint them up to look real nice, and then DESTROY THEM in a few races...
That's why I wanted to make them thicker. Sure a weightless .005 body is going to be fast,but by the time you spend 3 bucks for a body, buy paint for lexan, and add few more bucks for decals you could easily have 10-15 dollars invested in a body that isn't going to live long.

I have to admit that .030 is pretty thick, however for a magnet car like a Tyco 440x2 that travels 1000 scale MPH it might make sense to use a heavier body for durability.

Wings on the other hand should be light to keep the weight as low as possible.

ZIG

I like my bodies to be durable,nothin fries me worse that to make up a nice lexan or ultra thin resin body and trash it in a few races. Make em thick.
Greg there is a guy who used to race RC at the PAL club who has a CNC router that can handle 4X8 panels in can you believe it? Huntington. He says he can stay in .020 over the 4X8 sheet and is working to get it better. Moose

Hi Moose,
Sounds interesting... Check out the Georgia Clay Oval at Stillwell Racing.
http://www.stillwellracing.com/Track%20Photos.htm
You may have seen this one, IT'S AWESOME!!!

Zig

I was reading about a true scale gp car on another thread, and it got me thinking about what a true scale sprint car would be...

Let's assume that if we use the long wheelbase of 1.5 inches to be equall to the longest sprint wheelbase of 89" and round up to 90"
90 inches divide by 60 = 1.5 inches 1-1/2" wheelbase in 1/60 scale.
78 inches divide by 60 = 1.3 inches 1-5/16" max width in 1/60 scale.

Conclusion: What we think of as an HO Scale Sprint Car is really 1/60th scale. Anything longer than 1-1/2 inches is a champ dirt car or "USAC Silver Bullet Series" car, a short wheelbase t-jet with tuff one or t-jet size wheels and tires is a midget...

ZIG

Here's a few more interesting 1/60 scale Sprint Car measurements...

Nose Wing: Max Size 2' x 3' = .400" x .600"
Top Wing: Max Size 5' x 5' = 1.00" x 1.00"
Sideboards: 40" x 60" = .660" x 1.00"

15" Racing Wheel = .250" diameter.

Un-Driven wheel widths "front"
Dirt: 8" max = .130" wide
Paved: 10" Max = .160 wide

Driven wheel widths "rear"
18" max = .300 wide...
NOTE:18" wides are the most commonly used on Right Rears, left rears vary a lot because they are used to setup stagger, and range from...
14" to 16" wide = .230" to .260" wide.

Tires however are not Quite as easy to scale,these are the smallest and largest sizes from Hoosier Racing Tire's catalog...

Pavement:
Front,24"-25" dia. x 8"-12" wide = .400"-.416" dia. x .133"-.200" wide.
NOTE:left front may be 8-10-12 wide,right front is always 12 wide...
Rear,25"-28" dia. x 13"-17"wide = .416"-.460" dia. x .200"-.283" wide.
NOTE:left rears may be 13-14-15 wide,right rear is always 17 wide...

Dirt:
Front,27" dia. x 8.5" wide = .450" x .140" wide.
NOTE:both front tires for wing and non-wing are aprox. the same size
Rear,27"-33" dia. x 14"-18" wide = .450"-.550"dia. x .230"- .300" wide.
NOTE:left rears for wing are 15" wide,non-wing are 14" wide... right rear for wing 18" wide,non-wing 17" wide.

Conclusion: STOCK Tyco 440x2 wheels are actually pretty close to 1/60th scale, fronts .250" dia x .187 wide,thats just a bit wider than a 15x10" pavement wheel... .250 dia. x .280 wide is equall to a 17" wide rear, an AJ's dual flange rear would be just like a 15x18 bead lock wheel...

Stock 440 front tires are .380" dia. rears are .450" about the same as a right rear pavement tire...

Tires sizes are not going to be as realistic,because we all want to run as low profile tires as possible for handling, but by running different width tires we can simulate stagger. (Tires should be black only! I have never seen any neon gumdrops on a real sprinter :cool: )

ZIG

For anyone still interested, here's whats up...

I still can't form the GE LEXAN material, I hunted all over the net for information and found out that this type of material is the hardest to form due to it's high tensile strength and resistance to heat.

The company that built my machine sells an device called a pressure dome that aplies pressure to the outside,while the vacuum pulls on the inside to form this type of plastic... I havn't checked on pricing for it yet but it looks like I need to.

Meanwhile,
I have used up all of my SIG .017 polycarbonate? and have 15 body kits just about ready to go... these are intended to go to one of our members to help start a class at their local races.

Since I can't form my top wing bodies, I built a jig to bend them to a uniform 1" x 1" the wing sides are formed and will mount with 2 sided tape or adhesive.

As for the .030 thick bodies, I have about a dozen or so of these and some material to make more...

The bottom line is that finding enough of the rite kind of material is my biggest problem... I placed orders at two local hobby shops over the weekend but they only order from SIG about once a month!

Stay tuned,
ZIG

You the man Zig! R u still casting JL sprint kits? Tim :confused:

You the man Zig! R u still casting JL sprint kits? Tim :confused:

Hi Tim,
I still have the original JL body mold... it's in sad shape :cry:
Are you ready for JL-2 ???
ZIG

Got any pics Zig? :confused:

Got any pics Zig? :confused:


Only in my mind :tongue:

What I'm thinking is...
1) The tail on JL-1 was too short, it needs to still be small but drop down lower.

2) There was nothing on the sides, how about some headers and side panels?

3) It could use a more realistic driver.

4) Rollcage... i'm thinking music wire this time with something molded into the body to mount it...

ZIG

Sounds real good to me. Keep me posted Tim :wave:

For anyone still interested, here's whats up...
The bottom line is that finding enough of the rite kind of material is my biggest problem... I placed orders at two local hobby shops over the weekend but they only order from SIG about once a month!
Stay tuned,
ZIG

The first two orders of 440 bodies have been sent out,
I picked up more .015 material and am about ready to pop some more out!

7 bodies went east...
8 bodies went south...

ZIG

I was approached about building a routed HO dirt oval 4x12 for Summit Speedway. They already have the 18 volt adjustable power supply and the scoring system. It looks like as soon as I can get someone to make it they will supply all the materials to do it. Would you be interested in being a body supplier? M00SE


Hi Moose,
What kind of chassis and bodies do we want to race at Summit?

I have some .015 non-wing bodies for T-Jet and JLTO...

I wasted a lot of GOOD .017 material on the "Winged" for T-Jet and JLTO,and already want to revise the nose wing, more like the 440 style!!!

And last but not least, the 440 x 2 Winged Sprint... I'd also like to do a 440 non-wing too!

Sundance wants more JLTO Winged Sprints...

ZIG

The first two orders of 440 bodies have been sent out,
I picked up more .015 material and am about ready to pop some more out!

ZIG

Pulled some more lexan bodies today...

440 x 2 Winged Sprint .015 (10 in stock)
440 x 2 Winged Sprint .030 (6 in stock)

T-Jet non-wing Sprint .015 (12 in stock)
T-Jet Winged Sprint .015 (6 in stock)

I also rounded up about a dozen assorted "BLEM" kits... These all have some defects but nothing that would make them not work... CHEAP :thumbsup:
If anyone is interested in them I'll make a list, if not I may add them in as a bonus on some ePay auctions?

ZIG

Hi Moose,
What kind of chassis and bodies do we want to race at Summit?
I have some .015 non-wing bodies for T-Jet and JLTO...

Wasted a lot of GOOD .017 material on the "Winged" for T-Jet and JLTO,and already want to revise the nose wing, more like the 440 style!!!

And last but not least, the 440 x 2 Winged Sprint... I'd also like to do a 440 non-wing too!

Sundance wants more JLTO Winged Sprints...
ZIG

"I'll take an assortment of blems(one of each) to use as test mules at Summit. I pick up the wood Friday and start work on the track next week. Moose"

Hi Moose,
I can also start making a set of IROC cars for starters...
How about four Non-Wing sprints,with JLTO chassis and AF/X sized wheels like our coupes have?
RED, YELLOW, Blue, White ?

See Ya,
ZIG

"I'll take an assortment of blems(one of each) to use as test mules at Summit. I pick up the wood Friday and start work on the track next week. Moose"

Hi Moose,
I can also start making a set of IROC cars for starters...
How about four Non-Wing sprints,with JLTO chassis and AF/X sized wheels like our coupes have?
RED, YELLOW, Blue, White ?

See Ya,
ZIG

That will work. I need to get ahold of you to get you the molds and masters from the resin days. I am thinking that we could get the newbies set up with one chassis to run wingless sprints and coupes. Do you think the Moose coupe plug can be pulled to make a vac body?? I also have plugs of the ASA old school dirt cars that we could run on 440 wide chassis like the latemodels we ran at Sundance's track.
The track will be 4x12 routed dirt colored formica with a 22 inch radius outside lane and 1.5 inch lane spacing. I will finaly be able to use the router set up you made for me. I am just a little nervous about laying down the rail. I will hace extra material to make a couple of skidpads for practice first. I will be home Sunday, Moose

That will work. I need to get ahold of you to get you the molds and masters from the resin days. I am thinking that we could get the newbies set up with one chassis to run wingless sprints and coupes. Do you think the Moose coupe plug can be pulled to make a vac body?? I also have plugs of the ASA old school dirt cars that we could run on 440 wide chassis like the latemodels we ran at Sundance's track. Moose

Hi Moose,
Here's what I think...

1) Non-Wing "USAC" Sprints...
Chassis: JL or T-Jet "Stock"... Width 1-5/16 max. May Not Be Modified!
Wheels: Racing Wheels and Axels may be used. (AF/X or T-Jet size)
Tires: Slip On Silicone Rear Must Be Black.
Body: Lexan Sprint Car Body, Must have complete rollcage,and driver.

2) 440 Winged "Outlaw" Sprints...
Chassis: Tyco Magnum 440,440x2,440x3 "Stock" Width 1-5/16 max. NO Pans, (Traction magnets must be removed.) May Not Be Modified!
Wheels: Racing Wheels and axels may be used.
Tires: Slip On Silicone Rear Must Be Black.
Body: Lexan Sprint Car Body, Must have complete rollcage,and driver.
Wings: Mandatory Top wing may not exceed 1-1/16" x 1-1/16"

NOTE: Anything that is not "Box Stock" such as Lifelike or Tyco Nascar ect, will always be a "Builders" class. These proposed guidelines could produce a couple of very competative and fun classes, that would still be affordable.

1. non-wing sprints, I now that we don't want FRAY cars for our spec chassis,but as we all know the biggest problem with racing JLTO's is that the first thing you want to do is change the soft axels and wobbly wheels!
Another thing is that with all the talk about Johnny Lightning being sold to RC2 is weather or not we will be able to get chassis and parts for them?
I think what is going to happen is that more and more parts are going to be interchanged between JL's and t-jets,so realisticly the easiest way to police it is to run JL or Stock "Grey Tip" arms, stock or TO magnets, and either chassis,and just watch for obvious things like re-winding,poly mag's ect.

2. Winged Sprints, Again we don't want to run Neo Cars as our spec class,but with so many different variations of 440's out there,removing the traction magnets would discourage trying to run "Rocket" arms ect. We would just look for things like bearings,re-winding,cobalt and poly mags ect.

3. Lexan Bodies, the lower cost of lexan bodies would help offset the cost of buying racing wheels. Cars equiped with racing wheels will handle better than stock wheels making them easier to drive and more dependable. :thumbsup:

Anyone have any other idea's or thought on the subject?

ZIG

1) Non-Wing "USAC" Sprints...
Chassis: JL or T-Jet "Stock"... Width 1-5/16 max. May Not Be Modified!
Wheels: Racing Wheels and Axels may be used. (AF/X or T-Jet size)
Tires: Slip On Silicone Rear Must Be Black.
Body: Lexan Sprint Car Body, Must have complete rollcage,and driver.


I've got a pretty good start on some Non-Wing Sprint IROC cars...
Started with five new JL 500 Chassis, removed the Tuff One wheels and axels, added NOS T-Jet Axels in the rear, with AJ's .230 I.D. x .410 O.D. x .295 W double/single flange rear wheels. The fronts are Hot Rod wheels with the small grooved tires... guide pins are mounted with 2-56 screws with nuts this looks like just enough weight to keep them in the slots!

The bodies are all cut out and fitted to the chassis they are mounted using the front axel (in the hot rod wheelbase) with pins to keep the tail down!

I'll get some pictures of them soon! :thumbsup:

ZIG

New Slimline Midget/Big Car Body!
This little body was modeled after a toy plastic race car that I
picked up a while back, I think it was a cracker jack prize, or a
party favor don't know for sure? But is struck me as a good likeness
to the big cars and midgets from the late 30's to early 40's.

It would date to that era due to its 4 into 1 straight pipe, hand
brake lever, and most importantly it's tall narrow tail! Most people
don't know that these early racers didn't have the luxury of gear
driven fuel pumps,and had to use a hand pump to pump pressure into
the fuel tank! Could you imagine having to pump your fuel pressure
up while racing down the straight-a-way,then grab the brake lever to
take the turns,twice per lap,for the entire race! Wow... Oh yeah,
the body.

I started by making a latex mold of the toy car.
Cast two bodies.
Cut the sides off of one body.
Cut the middle out of the other.
Fitted the three pieces back together.

"I will have to say that it looked really wierd about now, it had
three grills and four sets of louvers,the driver had 4 arms and
three heads... I had to dremel the heads and arms off first because
it was freaking me out!"

Then I started filling, filing, sanding, cutting fitting, added body
posts, and borrowed a head from a pennline car.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/SlimlineMidgetBigCar.jpg
More pictures at Yahoo Groups HO Sprint Car Racing.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hosprintcarracing_group/

ZIG

Nice Job. I'm very impressed with your process.

Made some progress...
The molds for the outside and inside have been poured, I'm about ready to try it out!

Here's another picture of the mold master and the original toy car it was based on.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/Aug30_05.jpg

ZIG

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/Aug30_05.jpg

man that looks good are you thinkin bout makeing a roll cage of some kind

No plans to add a rollcage... But I did overestimate the time period for this style body! It would date from the late 40's through the 50's.

Here's the first cast from the new mold, it's painted as the Miracle Power Spl. driven by Tommy Hinnershitz.
http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/MiraclePower3.jpg

Zig


http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/MiraclePower3.jpg

What if Aurora had decided to make a t-jet sprint car?
What would it have looked like?

I would have to think that in the late 60's it would have had to be a slightly smaller version of the Indianapolis Racer!

Rollcages became mandatory in sprint car racing in about 1970 so it would probably not have had one.

I also think that the tire and wheel setup would have had to be similar to what they used on the Aurora Supermodified.

With all this in mind, I started out with an old Indy Racer body that had already had the wheelwells trimmed out "with toenail clippers" :lol: and started in butchering it...
first was to enlarge the hacked out wheelwells to fit AF/X rear wheels,and straighten them up a little bit.
Then the body posts were trimmed down to lower the body to the max.
The front wheel openings were also enlarged to clear the tuff one rear wheels that will be used as fronts, like the supermodified.
Then the nose was shortened by about 1/4" and all the scoops and exhaust pipes were shaved from the sides.

I still have some work to do... I havn't decided weather or not to remove the windscreen, and I think I'm going to make it a V8 with headers on both sides and some kind of injectors on the hood.

I could be wrong but an Aurora Sprint Car, What If ???

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/Aug25_01.jpg ZIG

Another picture of my What If Aurora Sprint with V8 headers...

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/Sep13_01.jpg

I don't know ? If Aurora made a sprint car they may have also used the headers and nerf bars from the supermodified?

ZIG

Hello Sprint Car Fans!
Have a few days off work this week,so I started updating my Geocities Page.
Here's a link to it...

http://www.geocities.com/gregzickafoose/mypage.html

I Value Your comments :thumbsup:
ZIG

Zig you gonna be home tommorow /Tuesday? Ken

Hi Ken,
Check your PM's
Zig

Zig! I am embaressed! I have no idea how I missed this custom 2 months ago!

Belated :thumbsup: to you! Have you taken it any farther yet? I would love to see it!

Hi Joe Z
No more progress on this one yet... I still havn't decided if Aurora would have molded in the headers or not? They did mold them in on the Indy Racer... and it's not another version of the Hot Rod... And should the windscreen be removed or not ? Hmmm !

I don't know what an aurora designer would have done. I believe I would be thinking along the lines of what they would have looked like in the sixties. What would have turned a designers crank and what would turn a kids head? Pipes slapped to the sides or hanging off, big and powerful? What is it that makes the super mod so desireable? Bumpers (for bumping) Nerf-bars (for nerfing) Big roof/wing (for roof/winging?) heh! i am not sure, but you know they were thinking "cool" when it went into production. Do you need to be concerned about mass-production costs? Will it look like a shortened indy when you are done? Do you want it to stand apart from the donor?

There is some stuff to chew on for a while. I doubt that a designer set himself down and drew up that super mod in 5 minutes. I bet he played with concepts for a long time.

Keep us posted, eh?

:wave:

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/Sprint_01.jpg
EXPERIMENTAL PROTOTYPE THUNDERJET

Here's a car I've been tinkering with for a while...
I'm still trying to build one with as much detail as possible,and to me one of the first things that you see is the tube frame and rollcage.

FRAME:
I fabricated the frame and rollcage from "K&S" 1/16" brass hobby tube...
The frame joints are all notched and fitted,and then silver soldered.
The cage is mounted to the chassis with the chassis clip.

NERFS:
Bumpers and Nerf bars are .025 music wire...
Rear Bumper is fitted to the inside of the brass tube cage and soldered in place.
Nerf bars are also .025 music wire but are fitted to a piece of brass tube in the short wheelbase front axel holes. Then bent into shape while on the chassis and held in place by the chassis clip,similar to the side weights on a Super II

NOTE: Rollcage and Nerfbars are NOT soldered to the chassis clip and are fitted to the chassis loose enough to let them wiggle around!

BODY: The hood and tail and driver are resin castings mounted with body posts and 2-56 screws. The rest is .020 styrene sheet.

Zig

Greg,

that car (and concept) is really outstanding!!! Very clever design with the tube frame stuck under the T-Jet clip!

Frankly speaking I never was really too excited about often toyish looking »winged warriors« (like those made by LifeLike), but your car with the brass roll cage and steel nerf bars and bumpers is just looking great! :thumbsup:

I´m really looking forward to update pics of that superb project!!! :wave:

Greetings from Germany,

Claus

www.c-jet500.de.vu

Zig- I didn't even realize that the T-jet chassis was exposed until claus pointed out the gear plate clip. Pretty nice integration. WHere did you get those wheels?

Jim

VERY NICE! I want one!

So far so good, Zig! I can hardly wait to see it complete! I love the way you have taken natural steps to sometimes difficult problems. Well thought-out and clean!:thumbsup:

Hello Claus,
Thank You, I will post more pictures of the car as it comes together...
As for the Lifelike Sprints, I was like a kid in a candy store when they were released, the first set that I bought was opened before my wife and I left the store parking lot!
Then I pulled the cars out of the set and thought "Why... did they make them SO BIG?"

They look odd because the bodies are 1/50th scale, and the chassis are 1/64th scale.
I have one of them all cut up and and about ready to re-assemble the pieces into something more like 1/60th to 1/64th scale,for resin casting.

Thanks again for the compliments
Zig

Hello Jim
Thank you, The chassis is a NOS T-Jet,and the alum. wheels are from JW's HO Speed Parts (Part # C05 Sprint Car Pack)

After studying his web site for days, I noticed that they made precision ground silicone tires,and rear sets could be mixed and matched to resemble the wide 18" right rear and smaller 14" wide left rears and still have the same diameter. This simulates the stagger used on real sprinters.

I originally wanted wide fronts but big ones to use the hot rod wheelbase, and the only thing I found was to use the same wheels as the left rear...
So I Emailed and told them what I was thinking,and asked what they would recomend to use with the rear tires that would look like big wide fronts,and still handle good on the track?

JW suggested using the tuff one sized fronts with an independent axel,and the Sprint Pack was born!

They are Awesome! The rears are threaded 0-80 and the offset can be adjusted on all four corners... they handle great,and JW's craftmanship is second to none :thumbsup:

Here's a link...
ZIG
http://www.csonline.net/vwalters/default.htm

Thanks Zig. Keep up the good work.

Jim

EXPERIMENTAL PROTOTYPE THUNDERJET

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/Sprint_03.jpg

Made a little more progress with this project...

Bodywork:
I wanted to update the hood to look more like present day sprinters so I did a little re-shaping to the original casting,and added a functional hood scoop.

After rough sanding to get the shape,sprayed a thin coat of Duplicolor Sandable Primer,then wet sanded with 600 grit paper,and repeated the process two more times... then wet sanded with 2000 grit.

Paint:
Sprayed 3 light coats of Duplicolor Auto Touch up paint.

More to come :thumbsup:
ZIG

EXPERIMENTAL PROTOTYPE THUNDERJET

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/Sprint_04.jpg

Here's a picture of the driver painted up... he's mounted to a skinny strip of lexan that connects to the tails body post.

The lexan on top of the rollcage is the wing mount, it mounts with pins and the angle of attack can be adjusted.

Zig

EXPERIMENTAL PROTOTYPE THUNDERJET
http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/Sprint_z1.jpg

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/Sprint_z11.jpg

The car is coming together...
Wings are .010 lexan covered with chrome mylar tape, wing sideboards are .015 styrene.

Decals were made with supercal decal paper, depicting Kraig Kinsers Remy #11k... Winner of the 2005 Knoxville Nationals.

The headers are from a 1/64th scale diecast car and are mounted to the frame with custom brass brackets that were made out of old 440x2 pickup shoes soldered to the brass rollcage.

Zig

Looks great!
But it does look like a lot of work.....

But it does look like a lot of work.....

It was a lot of work... but that was the idea!
The goal was to see just how close to a real sprint car I could build it...
Then kinda decide, what I like and dislike, what it runs like, ect.

For example...

Tubular frame:
Looks very realistic, but, was pretty difficult to fabricate and if it was true to scale it would be about 4" diameter tubing... I almost didn't paint it yet to see how it holds up ! Time will tell!

Hood and tail:
I really like the component style body work...
Lottsa different hoods and tails could be mixed and matched to create a variety of different style cars.

Overall:
I think the shape and proporting are close but it still came out just a bit bigger than I wanted.

Need to do lottsa track testing... :thumbsup:

Zig

Here's something different...

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/40sprint01.jpg

This is a Winners Circle "Action" 1/64th scale sprint car...
Action's car is really 1/64th not 43rd or 55th or whatever scale and it's tiny.

The body itself is about 3/8" wide on the outside and barely 2" long.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/40sprint02.jpg

I started by stripping the car down to the bare body, then started dremeling the inside out to fit the width of the motor from a Zip-Zap mini rc car.

The original axels were about .080 dia. so the axel holes were reamed out to 3/32" and fitted with t-jet axels, sleeved with 3/32" brass hobby tube.
A brass drop arm soldered to the front axel sleeve holds the tyco pro flag.
Zip-Zap pinion gear, t-jet ring gear, AJ's rear wheels and a JW's tuff one sized independent front end.
The motor is mounted in the body (exoskeleton) with JB Quick Weld.

The Zip-Zap motor is only supposed to run on 3.5 volts... I smoked one with a 21.8 volt tyco wall pack... this one likes a lifelike 12volt pack ?

I have done a little testing and so far it runs real quiet, is way overpowered, wobbles, bounces, is top heavy and a real handfull to drive and...
I LOVE IT! :thumbsup:
Zig

This is a truly fantastic piece in my opinion.

You are quite the innovator! I’ve never seen anything like it.
I wondered if anything could be done with all these tiny self-powered cars that I’ve been seeing at the discount stores and dollar shops.

You’ve totally answered that question!
And so tiny-

Just a creative and ingenious scheme all around!:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Cheers..

Thanks boss9
Just playing around... I'm really surprised that the thing runs!
Zig

Here is our version (race proven).....can you guess what is started life as? It fits a standard Tjet chassis.

http://members.aol.com/slotcarjohnnies/3.jpg

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www.SlotCarJohnnies.com