I've seen a bunch of information on buying a Nitro controller with 120 Ohm resistor as being the best solution for tjets. However, budgets being what they are, how much of an improvement would a $20 60 Ohm Parma economy controller be over stock Tomy controllers? I assume the JL X-tractions would be easier to drive as well.

Thanks,
Ed

I think stock Tomys are about 60-70 ohm. I don't know if your on track performance would improve much. On the other hand, you'd have much nicer controllers, as the stock ones really are junky. See if you can find some cheap parmas on eb@y and look at HO World...they have those 120 ohm resistors.

Trev

A 60-ohm Parma controller will work well with X-Tractions, go for it. Tomy stock controllers are around 35 ohms.....which can be a bit touchy, especially with tjets and JLTO's. Besides those little set cotrollers burn up just with normal use.

I soldered in radio shack 120 ohm resistors in a few of those junk tyco controllers, they run cooler and I have more control. Total investment $1.39 & 30 minutes. Now thats econo !

Thanks guys. Sounds like either way will probably be an improvement. I can buy two economy controllers for me and the boy and then hack up a few Tomy controllers trying to make a 120.

My Tomy controllers measure 58-60 ohms. You can modify them to get 65-68 ohms, but it hardly makes a difference on the track.

I think the x tractions work just fine with the stock Tomy 60 ohm controllers. I would like to try a 45 ohms controller.

The Tjets could use a few more ohms. Can't remember who makes it at the moment, but a Parma replacement 90 ohm resistor does exist, might be ideal.

Tomy stock controllers are around 35 ohms.....which can be a bit touchy, especially with tjets and JLTO's.

I'd respectfully have to disagree on that ohm rating. While I'm not electronically knowledgable, and don't posess an ohm meter, I do have some 45 ohm Parmas. They're WAY too low for Tjets...they act as an on/off switch only. I have much better mid-range Tjet control with the stock Tomys. (Still nothing to write home about, but way better than with the 45s)

I've always understood that the higher the ohms on the controller, the better your low and mid range control is with thunderjets. This suggests to me that the ohms on the stock Tomys are higher than the 45 ohm Parmas.

As I said, not trying to diss anyone. :hat: But I'm pretty sure stock Tomys are higher than 35 ohm.

Its actually too bad the Tomy controllers aren't a bit more durable. Despite what most of the more knowledgable people here say, I actually don't mind em' so much. Maybe I got lucky and got a good set.

I think the x tractions work just fine with the stock Tomy 60 ohm controllers. I would like to try a 45 ohms controller. I run a lot of XTractions...IMHO, you're better off with the Tomys. Xtractions are just OK with the 45s. (a little better than Tjets with a 45, but not much)

then hack up a few Tomy controllers trying to make a 120.
If Im not mistaken, it'd be easier to do that with the Parmas. Least you can unscrew them and take tham apart.



Cheers
Trev

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I remember one night in chat AFXtoo checked the resistance on a Tomy controller,so I will back him up on that.

I have some Parma 45's,Worthless for the JL tjets,as everyone else said.I don't mind using the Tomy stock controllers,tho I really do miss not having a brake.

Ultimately,I will go for four 45s and four 120's.That would cover about everything.

On a slightly different note,the topic of controllersmas well as a few other topics,comes up often.Maybe we need some kind of "sticky" controller topic that could pretty much tell everyone anything they wanted to know about controllers.


HobbyTalk.......The Other White Meat.

Mike

I guess I should bring a couple Tomy controllers to work and measure the resistance.

For tjets they are certainly on/off, but for the MT and XT cars I think its more of an ergonomics issue. At low speed your finger is essentially pushing against the tip of the trigger instead of the face of it. Seems like the power distribution is relatively even across the trigger pull range. I have never tried any parma controllers, but when you look at the trigger it appears that your finger would start out on the face of it as opposed to the point or the tip of the trigger like on the Tomy controller. Who knows.

Ed,,,,,,

Check this place for the Parma comtrollers:

http://www.hobbylinc.com/index.htm

Look under "accessories".

They seem to have the best prices I could find for stock comtrollers,and they run a lot of specials via email if you get on their list.

HobbyTalk......It's What's For Dinner.

Mike

I have 7 stock tomy controllers in my possession. I did have 8, but one is now in a landfill somewhere. The return spring broke.

I also have a Fluke 8010A bench multimeter that has been calibrated in the last year or less.

5 controllers measured pretty darn close to 60 ohms
1 controller was 65 ohms.
1 was 75.

If you measure the resistor itself from one end to the other, it does come up about 75. But, the wiper doesn't sweep the entire wound surface of the resistor (like a Parma controller does), there is a plastic ramp that lifts the wiper off the resistor roughly 1/8" from the end of the windings. So, the useful resistance is less than the full value.

Hmmm. Thats interesting. Looks like I need a 95 or 120 Ohm controller.

Thanks for measuring those.

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The TYCO Controllers are 75 Ohm most of the Tommy are in then 60 range.

Roger Corrie

I have had all sorts of controllers over the years from the sets and never any aftermarket ones.
I have old aurora wheels, thumbs, pistols,
Tyco thumbs & pistols and a few tomys....
I there a controller out there that will not cost me 2oo.oo that is adjustable?
Turn a dial to x, race a tjet Turn the dial to Y and race an xtrack Turn it again to Z and race a sG+??
I run all sorts of cars and I love them all. I would love them better if the controller wasn't a hassle. I have little experience with comercial tracks, (I just found one in my area and have been there 2x.) so I have not had the exposure to the guys running the right stuff. Can anyone put it in a nutshell for me? Thanks!

Joe

You are a handy guy.Here's a link you might want to check out if you want to make one:

http://www.inlandempirehoraceway.itgo.com/custom.html




The best part of wakin' up....
Is HobbyTalk in your cup.

Mike

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check this page out http://home.att.net/~medanic/Tech-Parma.htm

"doctorslotcar, what RS 120 ohm resistors are you talking about? "

I don't know about doctorslotcar, but I have bought a wirewound 100 ohm resistor from R/S and installed it in a early AF/X controller.
It was a coated resistor. I ever so gently tapped onthe resistor and removed the coating with out breaking the resistor.
The conversion works ok...
Scott

Howdy, I'm new to the forum

Best thing I did was add a 25 ohm rheostat to each station. My 45 ohm parma eco-controllers work great for the AFX magnatractions and Tomy G+ but its too much juice for the Life-Like NASCAR stock cars. I can also reduce the power for children and newbies. Works well, I can tune the power output for using the entire sweep of the controller, for each car, much more controllable.

Howdy, I'm new to the forum

Best thing I did was add a 25 ohm rheostat to each station. My 45 ohm parma eco-controllers work great for the AFX magnatractions and Tomy G+ but its too much juice for the Life-Like NASCAR stock cars. I can also reduce the power for children and newbies. Works well, I can tune the power output for using the entire sweep of the controller, for each car, much more controllable.
Now THAT is a great idea!
I have used ho train power to run the slots and found that* useful in the same way. Now, when I make the jump to a nice big power supply, I can still do the same thing for my ruggers!
Thanks, Franko! :thumbsup:

I have several Tomy, Tyco & LL controllers. Out of the stock controllers, Tyco seems to work best for JLTOs. The setup I used for a while was a Tyco Turbo Boost terminal together with a regular Tyco controller. The Turbo Boost terminal actually does the opposite of what the name suggests. The best thing I ever did was finally buying myself a BRP Nitro 120. :thumbsup: WHAT A DIFFERENCE! If you are into slotcars for the long term, it's definitely a worthwhile upgrade. Otherwise, Tyco controllers seem to have better contol on the JLTOs than the Tomy controllers. Buying a 120 ohm resistor from Radio Shack sounds like an interesting idea. I have plenty of stock controllers laying around, so I want to give that a try too.