I run a somewhat stock E-Maxx, it has; Robinson Racing hardend gears, 72tooth spur gear, 18 pinion gear, 7in velocity series 40 Moab tires, 74 Ford Bronco Body, HV-Maxx brushless system.

You must upgrade your idler gear in the tranismisson to steel, and drive shafts to steel cvd's...

What gearing should I run?

I run a somewhat stock E-Maxx, it has; Robinson Racing hardend gears, 72tooth spur gear, 18 pinion gear, 7in velocity series 40 Moab tires, 74 Ford Bronco Body, HV-Maxx brushless system.

You must upgrade your idler gear in the tranismisson to steel, and drive shafts to steel cvd's...

What gearing should I run?
I'd start with what you have (72/18) and if it feels too torquey and needing a little more speed, go to the 66 tooth spur. Then adjust from there.

I'll try that out. I have a stock 66tooth spur in my box that i'm gonna throw in and try. I'm taking it to a rally race (actual cars) in Merritt tomorrow with my friend and his Savage and would like it to pull straight.

Is an alignment rack a good idea to use? Or just a use a tape measure? Seems that all it wants to do is wheelie or bust nuts. This might be caused in part by the short wheelbase. Does anybody know how to help stabalize the truck with that much power on tap? My truck is awesome fast, but it needs help to be able to get full potential.

I'm hoping that the taller gearing will help steady the power at lower rpm's. Thanks for the suggestion and i'll write back to let everyone know what happens...

P.S. Hoping to get pictures up real soon.

Hope it goes well! YOu could always skip 1st gear! If you have that much power on tap you might end up with better acceleration by rolling it out slowly. Nice problem to have though. There is always throttle control...

Well, the Maxx is a wheelie monster when there is good traction. The only way to curb that is to extend the chassis and lengthen the wheelbase keeping the weight forward. Or weighting the front end with lead weights (but then it wouldn't jump right & would handle funny).

The easiest way to keep the front end down is as Chris said, Throttle control. You'll still pull wheelies in 2nd at 66/18, so if you're thinking Higher gear ratios will make it settle down you might make it happen, but at the expense of youe BL system. It will take ALOT of torque and amps to get the truck moving when geared real tall. It will take some experimentation to get it right.

Well, took my truck to the road maintenance gravel pit in merritt and it was awesome. I didn't put the 66tooth gear in my truck yet, but am going to try it and use my buddies temp gun to keep taps on the temp.

I broke to rear steering knuckle and destroyed my 4th driveshaft. I wasn't taking it very easy either. Do hexhubs wear out? My wheels are as tight as they will go and the ball pivots are adjusted properly, but they wiggle...

It is more likely that the problem is with the rims and not the hexes but yes, I suppose hexes do wear out. You can buy aluminum ones but then they really wail on your rims. If it gets unbearably bad, instead of buying new rims (and unmounting the tires!), just super glue the hexes into place. I have done that with other trucks wheels when that happened and all is still good quite a while later.

Do hexhubs wear out? My wheels are as tight as they will go and the ball pivots are adjusted properly, but they wiggle...
Yes they do! I had a set wear out, the hole the axle goes thru actually gets distorted on the axle pin side. Lots of wobble.

More likely cause for the wobble is wheel bearings. Maxxes in general are hard on bearings, which are a bit undersize to start with. Go to the RPM knuckles; their oversize bearings can take a lot more punishment. Also, try pinning the wheels to the drive hexes: insert the hex in the wheel, and drill a few holes (about .050) thru the wheel and the hex. Then slip some piano wire into the holes, cover the whole mess with CA and you'll be about bulletproof.

Also think about aluminum diff cases. I noticed the stock cases spread out around the pinion gear under load, allowing the gears to slip and chatter. if you have diff lube on the outside of your case, around the seam, that's from the cases spreading. I know my E with Trinity 21's and Novak SD is a lot happier for the aluminum cases.

got steel drive shafts? and the Robinson slipper is a must-have. with your big Moabs you'll probably want to gear down a couple teeth.

what kind of runtime do you get from the HV?
my $.02