hankster
01-31-2005, 11:16 PM
Dateline 08/16/97
The following was given to me by Chuck Kimbrough, the owner of Kimbrough Products, and are his thoughts on Stock class racing.
This is just a suggestion, after thirty years of my experience with slot and R/C model cars. I don't care what you hear from other manufactures or any one else that just doesn't understand, this is the way it really is.
Model car racing is NOT a spectator sport (it can't compete with full size cars live or on TV), it's a participation hobby.The only way it can be bigger and a more important is to have more participants.
Thousands of people buy competitive R/C racing cars kits every year, but only a few hundred stay with the hobby very long. The reason it doesn't grow is the high drop out rate. If you happen to run into an ex-R/C car racer, ask them why they quit. The answer I hear the most is, "the cars got too fast and it took too much time and money to be competitive".
TOO FAST! can't be you say. Think about it, do we really need to set new track records when we race? Is the idea and FUN of competitive racing to beat the clock? No! the real challenge is beating the other racers in our class.
Did you know many thousands more people play slow pitch soft ball then any other organized form of this stick and ball game?
Thousands more amateur and semi-pro racers drive full size cars like the Legend Cars, Formula Fords / Renault, Vintage and all the other speed regulated sports car categories, then are driving in Formula One, CART, Winston Cup, Bush GN or Outlaw Sprints.
Although they all would love to be a professional driving a Formula One car ect, most of these amateurs don't have the talent to do so, and would probably kill or injure themselves if they tried.
To keep more people in the R/C car hobby we need a class that is slanted toward close wheel to wheel racing at lower speeds and cost. The average hobbyist does not have the reflexes to be in full control at the speeds the present stock motors produce, especially in on-road and oval racing. When the average Joe or Jane gets on the track with one of these rocket motor they are only partially in control, and an accident just waiting to happen. We all know how much better people drive after the first minute or two of a heat, when the hot part of the battery charge wears off and their car slows down.
A stock motor class should be noticeably slower then the modified class, so people who don't have lightning fast reflexes and a lot of money, have a place to compete. As it is now, there's not much difference in car speed from stock to modified, and they are both expensive.
Why haven't the one design classes where the racers use the same chassis, tires, gears, and motor solved this problem? Because frankly, these lower priced cars don't handle as well as an open design car. In other words, high speed is the problem, and one design cars don't address this, they might even make it worse, because their harder to drive then an open design racing car.
The problem begins when a novice wins a few races and is bumped up to the stock class. All of a sudden they go from being competitive, to being lapped a few times by the front runners. Most of them soon get discouraged and in a short time the hobby is another participant poorer. That's a shame, because these people would really like to continue racing R/C cars, but because they don't have the money, time or talent to be somewhat competitive in the present stock motor class, they hang it up. It's no fun racing if you know there's hardly any chance of you finishing on the same lap as the winner.
To be really competitive, a racers needs a commutator truer (some experts true their motors comm. between every heat at big races). Even the nominal cost of having it trued by someone else can add up. Plus the fact it can only be trued a limited number of times. After it's trued, a Dyno is needed to tune the motor. This can really make R/C car racing an expensive hobby.
It's easy to see the weak part of R/C car electric motors is the commutator. The reason the motor slows down is that the comm. distorts or goes out of round from the heat of high amperage loads. This happens every time the motor accelerates from a dead stop or slow speed. These high amp. loads are magnified many times when the timing is advanced, the more the advance the higher the amp. loads. That's what burns up the comms. The proof is the limited number of fast runs you get with 36 degree stock motors.
What's needed is to reduce the timing, but not just by half, that isn't sufficient. If the motors had zero degree timing, the amp. load would be reduced enough that stock comms. would last 20 times longer then they do now.
The Hot Shoe stock racers will tell you, "zero degree motors will be slow and have to be geared really high to get any speed, so will still pull a lot of amps.". Trust me, you can't gear a zero degree motor anywhere near high enough to pull the amps a 24 degree motor pulls off the starting line now. The Hot Shoe stock racers I am referring to, are the guys that are good enough drivers to control a hot modified car, but race in stock because it's easier for them to win. You notice I didn't say cheaper, because it isn't.
There are many cost advantages with a zero degree timed motor.
1. The bushings and brushes last longer in a slower RPM motor.
2. They can be used in a left OR right side drive oval or on-road car.
3. A slower motor with more torque uses a larger more efficient pinion gear.
4. Tire and general wear and tear on the car is less.
5. Zero degree motors don't suck near as much juice out of batteries, so expensive matched packs won't be needed.
A zero degree timed motor runs the same speed in ether direction of rotation, so the timing can be checked or teched easily (Something that can't be done with the present motors) by using an amp meter, or your ear by simply running the motor in both directions, and comparing the amps load or pitch of sound.
On a zero degree motor the timing can be one or two degrees off and it makes very little difference in speed, while on a 24 or 36 degree motor 2 degrees makes a big difference. So the motors will be more closely matched. Timed brushes are outlawed in stock, but even if a cheater used them, they wouldn't gain enough to notice. Naturally a comm-lock, and notched or pined end bell to can connection will be required.
What do we do with the existing motors? No problem, just create a super-stock class for the Hot Shoes. To make this hobby grow we need three motor classes.
How will these zero timed motors get built? If rules are made for this class by ROAR and NORRCA, manufactures will start making them just like they did the last time the stock motor rules were changed.
If zero degree stock class motor rules are made, a number of other specifications need to be nailed down with close tolerances, such as, thickness and number of armature lamentations, shape, and length of armature (no gaps or slots). Thickness of metal in the can, size and shape of holes in O.D. of can, and length of the bushings. Size and shape of brushes. Size and diameter of commutator. Or anything else that might effect their performance.
The reason for this, so stock class racers won't have to keep buying new motors every time a manufacture finds another loophole in the motor rules. The Mabuchi motor would not be the answer for this class because it's to easy to tinker with.
continued....
The following was given to me by Chuck Kimbrough, the owner of Kimbrough Products, and are his thoughts on Stock class racing.
This is just a suggestion, after thirty years of my experience with slot and R/C model cars. I don't care what you hear from other manufactures or any one else that just doesn't understand, this is the way it really is.
Model car racing is NOT a spectator sport (it can't compete with full size cars live or on TV), it's a participation hobby.The only way it can be bigger and a more important is to have more participants.
Thousands of people buy competitive R/C racing cars kits every year, but only a few hundred stay with the hobby very long. The reason it doesn't grow is the high drop out rate. If you happen to run into an ex-R/C car racer, ask them why they quit. The answer I hear the most is, "the cars got too fast and it took too much time and money to be competitive".
TOO FAST! can't be you say. Think about it, do we really need to set new track records when we race? Is the idea and FUN of competitive racing to beat the clock? No! the real challenge is beating the other racers in our class.
Did you know many thousands more people play slow pitch soft ball then any other organized form of this stick and ball game?
Thousands more amateur and semi-pro racers drive full size cars like the Legend Cars, Formula Fords / Renault, Vintage and all the other speed regulated sports car categories, then are driving in Formula One, CART, Winston Cup, Bush GN or Outlaw Sprints.
Although they all would love to be a professional driving a Formula One car ect, most of these amateurs don't have the talent to do so, and would probably kill or injure themselves if they tried.
To keep more people in the R/C car hobby we need a class that is slanted toward close wheel to wheel racing at lower speeds and cost. The average hobbyist does not have the reflexes to be in full control at the speeds the present stock motors produce, especially in on-road and oval racing. When the average Joe or Jane gets on the track with one of these rocket motor they are only partially in control, and an accident just waiting to happen. We all know how much better people drive after the first minute or two of a heat, when the hot part of the battery charge wears off and their car slows down.
A stock motor class should be noticeably slower then the modified class, so people who don't have lightning fast reflexes and a lot of money, have a place to compete. As it is now, there's not much difference in car speed from stock to modified, and they are both expensive.
Why haven't the one design classes where the racers use the same chassis, tires, gears, and motor solved this problem? Because frankly, these lower priced cars don't handle as well as an open design car. In other words, high speed is the problem, and one design cars don't address this, they might even make it worse, because their harder to drive then an open design racing car.
The problem begins when a novice wins a few races and is bumped up to the stock class. All of a sudden they go from being competitive, to being lapped a few times by the front runners. Most of them soon get discouraged and in a short time the hobby is another participant poorer. That's a shame, because these people would really like to continue racing R/C cars, but because they don't have the money, time or talent to be somewhat competitive in the present stock motor class, they hang it up. It's no fun racing if you know there's hardly any chance of you finishing on the same lap as the winner.
To be really competitive, a racers needs a commutator truer (some experts true their motors comm. between every heat at big races). Even the nominal cost of having it trued by someone else can add up. Plus the fact it can only be trued a limited number of times. After it's trued, a Dyno is needed to tune the motor. This can really make R/C car racing an expensive hobby.
It's easy to see the weak part of R/C car electric motors is the commutator. The reason the motor slows down is that the comm. distorts or goes out of round from the heat of high amperage loads. This happens every time the motor accelerates from a dead stop or slow speed. These high amp. loads are magnified many times when the timing is advanced, the more the advance the higher the amp. loads. That's what burns up the comms. The proof is the limited number of fast runs you get with 36 degree stock motors.
What's needed is to reduce the timing, but not just by half, that isn't sufficient. If the motors had zero degree timing, the amp. load would be reduced enough that stock comms. would last 20 times longer then they do now.
The Hot Shoe stock racers will tell you, "zero degree motors will be slow and have to be geared really high to get any speed, so will still pull a lot of amps.". Trust me, you can't gear a zero degree motor anywhere near high enough to pull the amps a 24 degree motor pulls off the starting line now. The Hot Shoe stock racers I am referring to, are the guys that are good enough drivers to control a hot modified car, but race in stock because it's easier for them to win. You notice I didn't say cheaper, because it isn't.
There are many cost advantages with a zero degree timed motor.
1. The bushings and brushes last longer in a slower RPM motor.
2. They can be used in a left OR right side drive oval or on-road car.
3. A slower motor with more torque uses a larger more efficient pinion gear.
4. Tire and general wear and tear on the car is less.
5. Zero degree motors don't suck near as much juice out of batteries, so expensive matched packs won't be needed.
A zero degree timed motor runs the same speed in ether direction of rotation, so the timing can be checked or teched easily (Something that can't be done with the present motors) by using an amp meter, or your ear by simply running the motor in both directions, and comparing the amps load or pitch of sound.
On a zero degree motor the timing can be one or two degrees off and it makes very little difference in speed, while on a 24 or 36 degree motor 2 degrees makes a big difference. So the motors will be more closely matched. Timed brushes are outlawed in stock, but even if a cheater used them, they wouldn't gain enough to notice. Naturally a comm-lock, and notched or pined end bell to can connection will be required.
What do we do with the existing motors? No problem, just create a super-stock class for the Hot Shoes. To make this hobby grow we need three motor classes.
How will these zero timed motors get built? If rules are made for this class by ROAR and NORRCA, manufactures will start making them just like they did the last time the stock motor rules were changed.
If zero degree stock class motor rules are made, a number of other specifications need to be nailed down with close tolerances, such as, thickness and number of armature lamentations, shape, and length of armature (no gaps or slots). Thickness of metal in the can, size and shape of holes in O.D. of can, and length of the bushings. Size and shape of brushes. Size and diameter of commutator. Or anything else that might effect their performance.
The reason for this, so stock class racers won't have to keep buying new motors every time a manufacture finds another loophole in the motor rules. The Mabuchi motor would not be the answer for this class because it's to easy to tinker with.
continued....