And have some questions. My set came with acrylic paints and I bought some flat enamel paints to use as well. My first attempt was with the enamels and it seemed as if the airbrush didn't work to well with the enamel. Take a look at the yellow car and you can see it has a textured look. It is using Testor's flat yellow enamel. BTW, Testor's is the brand of airbrush set that I have. The blue car was done using the included gloss blue acrylic. It doesn't look very glossy to me even in person. Is this because of the airbrushing technique or did I do something wrong. I experimented with the different spray patterns and feel comfortable with the airbrush itself. Should I have thinned out the paints before spraying? Does it matter if the paint is enamel or acrylic? Thanks in advance!

More pics...

The only thing I can answer is about the gloss paint. Most paints needs to be wet sanded with 1200-2000 grit sandpaper to get that high-gloss finish. Adding a clearcoat and wet sanding that might make it really glossy. But I've never tried wet sanding, so go to this site for some helpful tips. www.hotworldcustoms.com

What are you using as a compressor? If you can regulate the pressure try working from around 40psi as a starting point. Anything less than 15psi will be hard for the paint to be picked up. 70 to 75 degrees F is a desired temp for shooting.

I can only tell you about enamel as I don't put too much faith in acrylic. I've shot both and prefer the enamel's gloss.

It looked as if there was some "orange peel" on the sides of the yellow car. This is usually an indication that the paint is too thick. You want to thin the enamel with paint thinner, or mineral spirits to where the paint drips readily from the mixing stick but the color still clings to it. I always prime, bake at 400F for two minutes and lightly sand with worn 600 grit or worn "Scotch Brite" before shooting the color. Of course I let it cool down to room temp. The primer I use is Krylon from a can. I then spray a light color "tack" coat and let it dry about 10 seconds. You want it to adhere to the primer but you also want it to reconstitue when the second coat goes on. I then let the paint set for a minute or two while the oven preheats and bake the color the same way as the primer. As I found out yesterday, DON'T BAKE FINGERNAIL POLISH! At least not more than 30 seconds. I tried it for 2 minutes and it krazed the paint. Acrylic should be thinned and cleaned with H2O. This is what I would suppose most acrylic advocates like about the paint. Also, unlike enamel, it does dry completely. So does lacquer. It must be thinned with lacquer thinner. All of these paints should flow from the mixing stick readily but the color should still cling to the stick. FYI I've been told by more than one body man that enamel never dries completely unless its baked or has a hardner added. This is what produces the high gloss when waxed. Granted this was years ago and they may have out-run this characteristic by now. I just know if I don't bake my paint, a month form now I can leave a fingernail mark in it.

I don't like going from enamel to acrylic. Its that ole "oil and water thing." If your not maticulous with the cleaning of your brush you are asking for a gooey mess.

Hows it going. Airbrush is awesome. The only thing i use in my airbrush is automotive paint yes it can get real costly, but i found away around that.
Go to any local automotive paint store "specalizes in car paints" they will sell you paint in 1 oz. containers any color already pre mixed anywhere from 3 to 6 dollars. Yes you need to spray on a clear coat, you can buy it a spray can at walmart or where ever. Automotive paint is alot better paint any easier to use than anything else.:thumbsup:
Eric

Great info! I appreciate all the advice. I will try out the automotive paint as well as it seems there is a huge selection this way.