NSEA Protector Galaxy Quest - HobbyTalk
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post #1 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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NSEA Protector Galaxy Quest

Hey Fellow Modelers,

This will be my first thread and build log that I have done on HobbyTalk. I have been lurking here quite a bit and decided to jump in the pool, so to speak, and learn from some of the Master's here!

I have always loved Star Trek:TOS growing up and used to run home after grade school to watch it in re-runs on local stations. When Galaxy Quest came out, I fell in love with the parody and immediately started saluting random people with the Galaxy Quest salute! When I got back into modeling a couple of years ago, I jumped at the chance to purchase and build the NSEA Protector!

In the middle of researching for build logs and threads of the Protector, I stumbled onto several websites, this one in particular and, specifically Tim Nolan's "Lighting ALL of the Galaxy Quest "Protector"; which, I am sad to note, was not finished to completion; at least in the build thread! I borrowed several ideas from his build and incorporated it into mine. I am by no means done with mine, but I would like to share where I started from to current status in an attempt to finish a lighted model.

I am not arrogant enough to presume I am the epitome of modeling excellence, but I would like to try and put out a resource for others who may want to build the model and want to avoid my mistakes!

Also, I do want to learn how to improve my building and I can best do that by input from excellent modelers just as frequent here!

Thanks!

Steve

Last edited by RetiredMSgt1701; 03-13-2017 at 02:56 PM.
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post #2 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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NSEA Protector Galaxy Quest

So, it looks like I need to be more active on the site before I can post pictures or links!

Maybe this one will count, as I only need one more!

Thanks!

Steve
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post #3 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, so I started with the normal box shot. This one is a recent gain from Pegasus Hobby and it is very much the same as many others on the net.



Of course the first thing I did was do a dry assembly to see what I was facing.





Then I started in with a pin vise to drill out the windows!




The main concern, though, is not HOW TO GLUE it together so much as HOW TO HIDE THE WIRES in the body and wings. I am thinking I will have to create "channels" in the wings for some very small gauge wire (30 gauge AWG or smaller) to get power to the wings. I guess I will have to get a thickness gauge to help me make sure I donít perforate the plastic while making the channels. Some of the lighted builds I have found tend not to show this aspect; and I can see why. Here is a pic I snapped this morning. There is only a very small opening in the wing, to the left of the picture, where some wire may go. I still haven't applied to many brain cells to it yet, but it will definitely be a challenge.



I'll try and keep these initial posts short - I love to write.

Let me know what you think and any suggestions for improvement are always welcome!

More to come!

LLAP!

Steve
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post #4 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 04:33 PM
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Steve - have you ever used magnet wire? It's super thin and you can burn off the plastic coating with a solder to make your connections. I've used it in my 1:350 TOS E build and love it (can't take credit for it, though - Boyd's videos on his build are what turned me on to it. I got mine from Radio Shack).
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post #5 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 06:44 PM
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I totally agree with RossW that magnet wire is your friend here. It is like thread almost, it is so slim. Great for tight spaces like that. The channels you would have to cut (if you need any at all) would be miniscule.
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post #6 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 08:06 AM Thread Starter
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More holes drilled

Ross and Fozzie, thanks for the posts! I did decide to use 30AWG magnet wire on a majority of the ship. That stuff is really nice for tight spaces! Unfortunately, I could only find the red color so I ended up using electrical tape to let me know the negative from the positive wires.

While looking for some reference builds/threads on the web for the Protector, I found precious little on lighted Protectors. And, as I have noted before, even fewer builds are understandably completed. This model does not easily lend itself to wiring or lighting. But, not knowing any better, I'm gonna try anyway! ;D

Okay, on to the build. I think I have most of my lighting figured out. I am going to build this one on a 12V setup as I have a spare 12V power supply given to me. I think I have overestimated the resistors so no popping the LEDs. It wasn't until I arranged the LEDs on the breadboard that I noticed the colors where quite patriotic; ya know, for an American, Brit, or French! ;D



I also noticed from my DVD that there were two lights on the fantail, both port and starboard, that were white; presumably windows. I had planned for a single white LED to be put back there, but then I also noticed some red approach lights for the Surface Pods on the ventral surface of the fantail. So now I am toying with the idea of placing a small red LED back there as well attached to some fiber optics. Have settled yet but working on it.




I thought I had all the planning complete, so I went forward with the light blocking. The instructions recommend starting with the primary hull before any other and, to my thinking, is the best for lighting, too.



I was thinking how I was going to physically, light the thing, especially without SMDs (haven't reached that stage in my building skills yet) and with the primary hull's curved surface. I decided on a platform sitting on top of the interior support for the mounting display. The model has an insert in the ventral primary hull (a separate section) which runs up into the dorsal primary hull through which I can, hopefully, run the wires and power. The platform will keep the dorsal hull's LEDs and wire out of the way until I can fully assemble them.



I originally thought to only use two white LEDs for the dorsal primary hull's lighting, but the platform only lit the Aft portion of the windows; reference above where I thought I had this all planned out! So I added a third LED to the anterior of the platform. I think I have the hull window lights sorted. Whaddayathink?



Well, that's it for now
Thanks, as always for reading and commenting!

Never Give Up! Never Surrender!

Steve
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post #7 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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Pie Day (3.14)

Itís Pie Day so I can post three times, right?!

Here is the plan for wiring this beasty!



My initial plan was to make the Command Module (CM) removable, but, as you will see, I decided on a different tact.

I built and placed the red LED in the Aft of the Primary Hull. For the lack of names for these lights, I'm gonna call them approach lights for the Shuttlebay. I also placed a white LED for the AFT window lights. It doesn't look like I have light bleed between the two, but once I get the two halves ready to seal up, I was thinking of putting some Tulip paint between the red and white, ya know, just in case.



I did a test fit of the halves and I looks like I will have some external light blocking issues from the red. As you can see from the pic below, the LED is pretty far in the tail and can't help but produce all the bleed through. I am hoping that an exterior coat of black, then white again, will help cut that back a bit.





As you can see, I decided to add some longer wires to the white lighting platform for ease of "wiring". The recessed section on the lower primary hull for the display stand, when assembled, goes up into the primary hull. I am thinking of following another posterís design and use lamp guts and different display stand through which to funnel my wiring. I hope to bring the primary wires up through the base and connect everything to them. Adding longer wiring to the platform will allow me some play in soldering the pieces to the main. (Hope this makes sense.)



I did get a blinky board from a fellow modeler (THANKS!!!) for the squadron lights and I got the 603 SMDs from HDA (Excellent Service and response!) for use on the Squadron Formation lights! I am also going to follow his lead and dupe the chillers (the little Red thingies on the front of the wings) and try and light them. Iíve picked up some molding putty and some clear casting resin so wish me luck!

Oh, Iím also going to try and dupe the Command Module in clear so see if I can avoid cutting each window in the CM. I will probably have to use the Oomoo stuff I got for my AMT White TOS E to do it, though!

As always, thanks for reading, commenting and offering build tips!

Jason Nesmith: ĒRemember yesterday at the convention, those people dressed like aliens? They were aliens! They were termites or... or dalmations. I can't really remember cause I was kinda hungover.Ē

Steve
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post #8 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 08:11 PM
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Really nice work so far. Keep it up Master Sergeant.
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post #9 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 08:58 PM
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You're doing a good job! This is a ship I want to tackle one day myself.
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post #10 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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Duping clear parts

Good Day, Fellow Questerians!

Thanks, edge10! I am trying to do a good job on this build!

Fozzie, thanks to you, too! With your skills, I know you will do an awesome build on this ship; whenever you get a round tuit!

Iím still posting catch up posts so bear with me.

So, some progress and some tentative progress. I'll explain! ;D

I opened up the "windowsĒ in the wings. I did the traditional "drill two holes, cut out the center with an exacto knife and file the rest" technique. I used a 3mm LED to see how the lighting would like and, due to a support near the front of the windows, I was glad I decided to use two LEDs to light this area.



Decided to follow another builderís lead and try and make the red bits on the wing.

First time using the molding putty and it seems to have worked well. I used the acrylic sprinkle method for the chillers, too, as the acrylic mixture came out porous and unattractive.



I was gonna drill out the Command Module (CM) windows but before I got too far, I knew I wouldn't be happy with the result. So I went back to my plan to dupe the CM in clear resing. So I put wax in the windows I had started drilling out...



And then used acrylic finger nail resin and monomer to dupe the CM in clear. I had tried to make a two part mold and pour duplication, but I didnít have much success with it. I even tried to make a two part stone mold which didnít work out either. I fell back on my dental lab training and used a sprinkle and wet method to make the CM. I would sprinkle a small portion of the acrylic in the putty mold and then wet it with the monomer and then repeat the process until the mold was completely covered and thick enough.

Here is a picture of the mold.



Here is a shot of the final casting, after finishing, with the original part.



I also did some gross finishing on the chillers (the little Red thingies on the front of the wings). Here they are with the original parts.



A quick dry fitting of the clear parts show they should work out well



I still need to do a bit of fine finishing on them and fit them to the wings, but, for the most part, I am quite pleased with the turnout!

In other news, the fiber I ordered has arrived so I will be attempting to install the running and formation lights soon. Right now, I am thinking the blinker board will have to go in the base while the lights will go in the ventral primary hull with the FO running to the various points of the ship. Any tips and suggestions are welcome!

Thanks for stopping by!

Steve
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post #11 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 11:33 AM
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This model is small enough so you can definitely use individual LEDs to light up the windows, but if you tackle a larger model with more windows you might want to consider LED tape. I like the HD (high density) stuff as there's an LED every inch - same as what's included in the PL light kit for the 1/350 TOS E, and it seems to light the insides very well. I don't know if you light blocked with white paint, but flat white (either airbrushed or spray painted) is the best for interior light blocking as it scatters the light around, helping to make all the windows light as evenly as you can.
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post #12 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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LED Tapes...humm...

Quote:
Originally Posted by RossW View Post
This model is small enough so you can definitely use individual LEDs to light up the windows, but if you tackle a larger model with more windows you might want to consider LED tape. I like the HD (high density) stuff as there's an LED every inch - same as what's included in the PL light kit for the 1/350 TOS E, and it seems to light the insides very well. I don't know if you light blocked with white paint, but flat white (either airbrushed or spray painted) is the best for interior light blocking as it scatters the light around, helping to make all the windows light as evenly as you can.
Ross, I painted the inside with a flat black followed by a glossy white; both from what was on hand from a rattle can. I was thinking the glossy white would reflect the light rather than scatter it. Interesting point though; one I hadn't really thought through. Thanks!

I also see your point about the LED and the LED tape. I haven't used the tape before and, as I plan to do an Enterprise C once I am done with this one, may need a recommendation on where to get some economical, yet good, LED tapes. The C's saucer is nearly 8" across and the tape should light it well. Any suggestions?

Thanks for your input! I appreciate it!

Steve
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post #13 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 08:42 PM
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You're doing a great job! Thanks for sharing!
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post #14 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 12:31 AM
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Spectacular work, I'm looking forward to more pictures (hint, hint).
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post #15 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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Greetings Fellow Modelers!

Thanks for the encouragement, Dr. Brad!

Oh, I am no stranger to the camera or to taking pictures, Jodet! For my 1974 AMT TOS Enterprise build, I ended up with over 1400 pictures! And thanks for your kind words!

I did do some light blocking on the ventral primary hull and the wings! At least this was forward progress!



Kinda looks like brake pads!



While waiting on some parts, I decided to try and work on lighting the Engine Pods. Once again, I found out that this model has very little room for lights, resistors or wires! :-[

As you can see, I used 30AWG magnet wire across the Ventral primary hull. I am hoping that it will be able to handle carrying all the power I need for the wings without heat.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Fozzie View Post
I totally agree with RossW that magnet wire is your friend here. It is like thread almost, it is so slim. Great for tight spaces like that. The channels you would have to cut (if you need any at all) would be miniscule.
Yep, you and Ross were right, Fozzie! In trying to fit the parts together to evaluate the space, I decided to ream out the supports for the wings. The model depends on friction between the, I don't know the exact term to call them, male and female parts on the wings and body. I decided to ream out the female receivers to allow me to quickly assemble and disassemble the parts as needed. Using a power drill and a bit slightly larger than the receiver, I set out to reduce the friction. But I did a newb mistake and ended up putting a hole in the hull! CURSES!



A bit of putty and sanding will fix it but I hate it when I create more work than I save!

So leaving this, I made the lighting for the Port engine pod. After several attempts, I settled on this arrangement of the lights. Not my best work. Still working through if there is a better way to do things. Standby.



Another issue reared it's ugly head, again! When I added the resistor in the wing, thinking there would be space for it, there wasn't space. SOOOOOOoooooo, I will have to put the resistor in the pod with the lights. Woohoo! Still, I had to take a picture of the lighted pod! It is gonna look SOOOOO COOOL!



I figured I had discovered enough ways something didn't work and called it quits for the day.

Thanks for reading; if you made it this far! Writing these logs helps me think through obstacles so thanks for your indulgence! ANY suggestions, no matter how small, would be appreciated and comments, inputs and constructive criticisms are always welcome!

Never Give Up! Never Surrender!

Steve
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