K't'inga 1/1000 sclae by Ugh Models - HobbyTalk
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post #1 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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K't'inga 1/1000 scale by Ugh Models

OK folks... time for my first Trek build in almost a frackin' year! Oh how I have missed it.
Anyway, I have always wanted a 1/1000 K't'inga in my collection so when I saw the announcement from Ugh Models about their K't'inga...well... I knew the time had come. So I fired off a quick email to Erin at Ugh inquiring as to whether they would accept a money order for payment and they said, "Well, PayPal is preferred but,if that's the only way, sure I guess." So I replied "Say no more!" and payment was issued. A short while late it arrived in my mailbox. And here begins my build thread. Aren't you guys excited? I know I am...

The box.They spelled Ugh Models in Klingon... too cute by half... Klingons would probably hate that:

Box by trekriffic, on Flickr

Opening the box I found the instructions- one page front and back:

Clear and concise instructions for assembling the 13 resin parts included in the kit:

Instructions Front by trekriffic, on Flickr

Nice color guide for those wishing to paint the K't'inga as seen in Star Trek the Motion Picture:

Instructions Back by trekriffic, on Flickr

Care was taken to ensure the decals were not harmed by abrading with the other kit parts by wrapping them in wax paper:

Decal Pkg by trekriffic, on Flickr

Unwrapping the decals I noticed Ugh provided two choices for the bow photorp tube decal- a gold and a red option. Nice:

Decals by trekriffic, on Flickr

The bag'o'parts:

Parts Pkg by trekriffic, on Flickr

Command pod parts. Some very nice detailing here:

Command Pod Parts by trekriffic, on Flickr

More to come!

Last edited by Trekkriffic; 04-06-2017 at 01:34 PM.
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post #2 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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Moving right along...

Very nice detailing on the warp nacelles:

Nacelle Parts by trekriffic, on Flickr

Nice casting on the trefoil base. A hole for inserting a display rod will need to be drilled:

Stand-Neck-Hangar Deck by trekriffic, on Flickr

Beautiful casting on this part. No pinholes and very minor flash:

Engineering Hull by trekriffic, on Flickr

Parts fit is very good. I will still use brass pins to reinforce joint strength where flexing may occur:

13 Parts by trekriffic, on Flickr

Last edited by Trekkriffic; 03-09-2017 at 03:47 PM.
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post #3 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 10:37 AM
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Nice kit! What is the cost?
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post #4 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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Nice kit! What is the cost?
$45.00

Here's a link to their ordering page:

https://www.fpkclub.com/ugh-models/?..._number=UGH053

They have 3 left in stock.
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Last edited by Trekkriffic; 03-09-2017 at 03:46 PM.
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post #5 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
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Work continues...

Some Tamiya putty was used to fill small gaps between the side "radiator" pieces and the main housing:

Hangar Bay Housing by trekriffic, on Flickr

A small resin crumb had to be removed from the right side of the hangar bay doors and the area rebuilt with a small piece of sheet styrene:

Hangar Bay Rear by trekriffic, on Flickr

The bow had a small pour stub I removed requiring use of strip styrene to restore some of the raised plating:

Pour Stub Repairs by trekriffic, on Flickr

A hole was drilled in the backside of the command bulb where it joins the neck boom and a brass pin was inserted using CA:

Brass Pinning by trekriffic, on Flickr

A mating hole was drilled in the neck boom to mate with the brass pin in the command bulb for added strength:

Hole for Brass Pin by trekriffic, on Flickr

CA was used to glue the two parts together with the brass pin reinforcing the joint:

Assembled Boom and Bulb by trekriffic, on Flickr

The dome was glued to the top of the bridge tower using Plastic Surgery CA glue. Regular Gorilla Glue CA didn't seem to work as well but it may be because I used too much glue:

Assembled Bridge Tower by trekriffic, on Flickr

Really nice detailing on the front of the command deck:

Assembled Command Pod-Boom by trekriffic, on Flickr
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post #6 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 05:59 PM
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I was going to say that the pod isn't very accurate but it sure beat the heck out of Round 2's 1/1000 K'Tinga!
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post #7 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Round 2 has a 1/1000 K'T'inga? You sure you don't mean the one in 1/537 scale?

Here's my original release 1/537 K'T'inga build years ago:

Klingon K't'inga by trekriffic, on Flickr

Klingon K't'inga by trekriffic, on Flickr

Anyway, the detailing isn't perfect in this scale, certainly not when compared to photos of the studio model but, you are right, it's quite a bit better than it's larger cousin from Round 2. The suggestion of shapes is there but can be improved if one wants to make the effort. I suppose one could go all hog wild and try to add all the missing itty-bitty greeblies but I'm not sure it's necessary. You wouldn't even be able to see much of it from more than 4 or 5 feet away and even then you might need a macro lens on your camera to get decent closeups.
I don't know... what do you guys think? Should I go all nutty on greeblifying this or not? I have great studio model references available on imgur to build this as either the Motion Picture or Quonos One version. Building it an accurate version of the latter would be even more complicated, especially at this scale. It's not just a different paint job, there are definite structural differences. More to add on (brass photo-etch) and much more work to modify parts.
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Last edited by Trekkriffic; 03-09-2017 at 07:05 PM.
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post #8 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 07:48 PM
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That was my point, R2 hasn't released one. Too busy taking surveys and ignoring the results I guess.
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post #9 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-10-2017, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trekkriffic View Post
I don't know... what do you guys think? Should I go all nutty on greeblifying this or not?
I dare say that putting that effort in another 1/537 kit would be more rewarding.
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post #10 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-10-2017, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I dare say that putting that effort in another 1/537 kit would be more rewarding.
I think you're right. Still, I know of a few things I can add that wouldn't be too much work.
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post #11 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-10-2017, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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Back at it...

Nacelle flash. Cleanup should be pretty quick using files and sanding sticks. Maybe a little putty here and there:

Nacelle Flash by trekriffic, on Flickr

Engineering hull ventral detail. The triangular frames near the front of the lower engineering hull are superbly detailed and cast. No pinholes and very little flash. Some tiny amounts of pink mold release residue here and there which was easily washed off:

Engineering Hull Ventral Detail by trekriffic, on Flickr

How nice is this recessed stern detailing? Just takes my breath away how nice this looks up close to the naked eye:

Stern Detailing by trekriffic, on Flickr
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post #12 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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Worked some on the warp engines and the boom today...

Perfect Plastic Putty is a water based filler that goes on best in these thin joints using a syringe. After a minute the putty is smoothed using a cotton swab so only a little sanding will be needed:

Puttying Gaps with a Syringe by trekriffic, on Flickr

The joints were lightly sanded. Thin styrene strips were glued to the fronts of the nacelles to cover up where I had sanded along the mold line and a small void had been filled:

Engines Attached by trekriffic, on Flickr

The warp nacelles are not straight up and down when viewed from the front or rear. They bend inward thus helping give the vessel it's badass predatory look:

Engine Angles by trekriffic, on Flickr

Noticed something when I looked at the boom in relation to the warp engines. The kit tab at the base of the boom and it's mating socket in the engineering hull fit together well but the boom has a pronounced droop downward:

Profile As Molded by trekriffic, on Flickr

What you want is for the boom to be in alignment with the warp nacelles as in this image:

ktinga_large_port by trekriffic, on Flickr

Removing the kit resin tab from the base of the boom allows you to align the boom with the warp nacelles. Fortunately the angle at the base of the neck is only slightly off so won't take much shimming to correct the angle. I will also be inserting a brass pin to strengthen and maintain alignment of the joint:

Profile Corrected by trekriffic, on Flickr

Last edited by Trekkriffic; 04-06-2017 at 02:07 PM.
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post #13 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 05:43 PM
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Looking great! Thanks for posting!
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post #14 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 04:35 AM
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I am enjoying the build so far. Thanks for showing us.
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post #15 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 08:46 AM
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Steve, this kit looks excellent due to detailing and, of course, your build will certainly make it better!

I never fail to learn something when I read through your build threads! (i.e Perfect Plastic Putty in a syringe, alignment of the boom...)

Your build is looking very good!

Keep going!

Steve
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