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1/350 TOS Enterprise Building Tips and Tricks.

562K views 2K replies 184 participants last post by  Hobby Dude 
#1 ·
Since everyone who is getting a 1/350 Enterprise is starting their own thread, we're quickly going to have a ton of threads going on regarding the same subject.

I'm starting this thread in the hopes that the mods will make it sticky and have it serve as a single source for tips and tricks in building this Enterprise kit.

So off the top of my head, here are a couple a quick notes to get everyone started.

#1. If you plan to light your model, wash the INSIDE of the kit as well as the outside before assembly. Give yourself a good clean surface for the LED ribbon to stick to.

#2. The 'toothy' texture that Model Man Tom referred to on the primary saucer is easily rectified if you don't like it. Before assembly, I suggest a light coat of either Tamiya Fine Primer or the Mr. Surfacer fine primer. (Any 'fine grit' primer should do)
Use a fine sanding pad (I found these 1,800 to 20,000 grit pads somewhere) go over the surface until you get rid of most of the primer.
I did this to one of the test shots and got it ga-ga-ga-LASS smooth.
This primer step also helps to illuminate any possible sink marks.
Don't spay too heavily or you might obscure a grid line.

#3. Use a solvent based model glue. Especially on the nacelle struts and their surrounding components. Any glue that binds based on 'surface tension' like 'epoxy' can pop off the plastic.

#4. When gluing the nacelle struts, compress them on a flat table with a board and a couple of books on top. This guarantees that there is no twist from over zealous taping.

#5. The compression rings on the nacelles are made as rings so there is no seam to sand. However, if you mess up an edge when removing them from the sprue, don't worry. The rings aren't 'keyed' so you can simply spin the ring to hide any mistake under one of the three boxes under the front of the nacelle.

I'm looking forward to seeing others tips.
 
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#2 ·
Yep ... need a sticky on this subject. I am thankful for tip #2, that information will help me. I don't have my kit yet but will make a final decision on the gridline issue when it comes. From other posts, it sounds like it isn't that bad. I do plan on using photoetch, but I don't plan to light the nacelle trenches. I do plan to allow the impulse to light but as a separate unit. I am looking at adding a sound box to play music from the show and hope to be able to add a variable speed for the bussard domes, and include the power up sound of the engines to coincide with the fan blade speed.
 
#4 ·
Yeah, this is going to be a tricky one. I've been racking my brain trying to figure out how best to "muffle" the sound. I really don't want so much as a whisper coming from the kit. If the motors prove to be loud, we'll have to share our thoughts on deadening the noise. Were one to use some sort of "insulation" to quiet the sound, I can already see issues in regard to the space inside nacelle and the fact that any motor should have adequate airflow so as not to overheat. I figured that by the time I get around to building mine, the more experience modelers will have come up with a solution. Fingers crossed!
 
#7 ·
I used one of these motors in a medical scanner:



Hard to tell from the video as I added the sound effect to the device as well, but the motors are somewhat quiet. They seem quieter than the ones that will be with the light kit. I may end up going this route, and replacing the motors in the kit. However, I also want to hook up a variable speed dial to have the fan blades "power up".
 
#8 ·
To make the bussards "field repairable" do not glue the assembly in instruction step 10 into the warp engines. Instead, hold them in place with magnets and add a bit of extra wire, aka service loops, so you can get the assembly clear.

Also, domes 139 and 140 can be lightly glued in place with Micro Krystal Klear or white glue to hold them securely in place, but still make it possible to remove them for repairs.

The motor could be tacked in place with hot glue that can be picked off if necesssary.

I don't have the lighting kit so I dont know about how the windmill dome is secured in place for that option.
 
#9 ·
Nice tips Paul.
I believe (Jim correct me if I'm wrong) Jim Smalls did just that with the magnets on his WF build-up.

The fan blade domes are pressure fit.

On preceding posts, I wasn't referring to the noise of the motors as the 'engine effect' but rather the sound effects of the warp engines ramping up and down.
 
#11 ·
I'm not at all worried about any sound the motors might make. My Master Replicas Enterprise (which still works perfectly) makes noise, as do the large Custom Replicas and Steve Neill models out there.

I'm much more interested in making certain that the combined visual effect of the blades, LEDs and reflective surfaces come as close to resembling the original studio model as possible.
 
#13 · (Edited)
I've used the same Polulu motors as galaxy_jason did for his 1/1000 kit. They are a little bit noisy so I'm still searching for quieter motors. You can see the first attempt here:



(The LEDs will be smaller in the finished version, and will have the appropriate dispersion via the sanded bulbs/domes and reflecting material. The repeating rubbing noise is from an overuse of hot glue to keep the LED disc in place)

ClubTepes - no offense, but my engine effect will have 5 independently blinkies (with some randomization in the on/off times, different every time its powered up) and the motor will slowly spin up (hopefully to match the warp sound effect). There's also the ability to speed up or slow down the motor to get the right speed, and I can change direction of the port engine from CCW to CW and back again.
 
#19 ·
are we talking Pro Weld like cement for the pylons or tube glue
I haven't purchased an 'Old School' tube of cement since I discovered liquid cement over a decade ago. However, I think in the case of the pylon supports ,tube cement is the perfect solution to an otherwise difficult problem. It has long drying time allowing for allignment and superior strength.
 
#27 · (Edited)
While inspecting the kit, I found that the nacelle cylinders have a few sink marks on both sides along the length that will need to be puttied and sanded. Nothing major, though.







Also, the saucer halves to not want to fit together completely. There is a consistent 3/32" gap all around the perimeter where the two halves join. It's either that the saucer top is a bit bowed up along the edges, or the structural 'wall' or 'ring' in the center of the lower saucer is a bit too tall, and prevents the saucer from closing up. In order to properly join them up, I might need to either remove that same amount from that inside ring, or heavily cement and use a lot of clamps to force the saucer halves together - or perhaps a combination of both.



 
#30 ·
While inspecting the kit, I found that the nacelle cylinders have a few sink marks on both sides along the length that will need to be puttied and sanded. Nothing major, though.

Also, the saucer halves to not want to fit together completely. There is a consistent 3/32" gap all around the perimeter where the two halves join. It's either that the saucer top is a bit bowed up along the edges, or the structural 'wall' or 'ring' in the center of the lower saucer is a bit too tall, and prevents the saucer from closing up. In order to properly join them up, I might need to either remove that same amount from that inside ring, or heavily cement and use a lot of clamps to force the saucer halves together - or perhaps a combination of both.
Not sure what your talking about here.
The ring is the intended height so there is no 'compression' in the middle of the saucer.
The test shot I built (version 3) taped up just fine.
No problem.
 
#37 · (Edited)
Trek Ace mine does the same! I removed the extras from the b/c deck(teardrop) and lower dome so I could see inside more when together.It defiantly sits together well in the center without any pressure(pencil shaded area on drawing)but has the gap your talking about.
View attachment 163602
I'm thinking with careful,patient alignment,gluing and clamping it will "come together" fine.Don't really want to start shaving down glue point areas.
Pretty much what you've said already,just wanted you to know yours wasn't alone.
When the halves are sitting together the gap is even all around,doesn't look warped.
Just sitting high from center.

Okay I just keep adding on here.Want to try to find whats causing this.
Looking at bottom saucer,the highest point is the "W" shaped piece(the darkest pencil shaded area on drawing).
So I took a black Shapie and outlined the top of the W.
Took a file across the top of it evenly till the marks were gone.It doesn't take much though to remove.
Tried the halves together again.
Repeated this about 4 times till when together I could look inside and see a gap starting (the thickness of paper)with the top of the W and the upper saucer.
Okay this doesn't appear to be the problem area,still have same even gap around when halves are together.
Maybe the "ring" will be next.
 
#40 ·
Thanks, Rich.

After carefully examining the top saucer, it looks as if the outside edge curls upward ever so slightly, causing the gap along the edges. This could be just because it is such a large piece being pulled from the mold while still warm. I'm not concerned with the height of the inside ring 'spacer' of the lower saucer any longer. Mike was correct when he stated that it was the right height - it is.

The best strategy still looks like gradually clamping and gluing the outer edges a section at a time. Then, if the teardrop area is open, applying liquid cement with a brush to secure the inside 'spacer' ring to the top by capillary action - if you choose to do so.
 
#43 · (Edited)
The masks cover the windows so you can spray the model without getting paint on the windows. When you are done painting, you remove the masks. No paint on windows and model is color you sprayed on it. This way you can install them and glue the whole thing together before painting.

Also the windows on this kit you have to install before gluing the hull together. They can't go in afterwards.
 
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