Winding your own armature advice - HobbyTalk
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post #1 of 91 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Winding your own armature advice

I have been wanting to try winding up some of my own T- Jet armatures for a while and finally decided to give it a try. Ive spent countless hours looking for information on this subject, (there doesnt seem to be a whole lot of info out there) along with talking to a friend who winds his own drag arms. He walked me through the whole process and I understand it totally, but my question is what gauge or gauges of wire are suitable for road racing? Im looking for a good combination of torque and top end hp, maybe 4 or 5 ohms? Something a little hotter than a mean green. I only home race, so following any class rules isnt important to me.

Thanks,

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post #2 of 91 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 08:50 PM
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If you want something hotter an a mean green try 37 or a 38 double wind (like a Super II). I believe 36 would be too hot for a non-magnet car. Good luck!
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post #3 of 91 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 09:48 PM
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HO World has a How To rewind T-jet arms:

http://howorld.net/archives/howto/rewind/armature.html
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post #4 of 91 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by slotcar58 View Post
If you want something hotter an a mean green try 37 or a 38 double wind (like a Super II). I believe 36 would be too hot for a non-magnet car. Good luck!
Thanks for the advice. I have several Tjets with Neo mags on the bottom of them so I might have to try both winds. I should be getting the wire today so next stretch of free time I get I will report back with my great success or miserable failure.

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post #5 of 91 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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HO World has a How To rewind T-jet arms:

http://howorld.net/archives/howto/rewind/armature.html
Thanks for the info, Im shocked I didnt run into that article before. It basically summed up what I already knew but added a few more tidbits of info.

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post #6 of 91 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 05:33 PM
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dyno yer way braver and taleted than i . to take on this task ya gotta have good juju on yer team. i dont have any advice but i am watchin what ya got going. i do have an interest in what you,re gonna try good luck! as far as hypo arms are concerened i just got a custom wound arm from tjetsgrig/jim it,s over the top smooth and fast.hope yours come out well !!
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post #7 of 91 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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dyno yer way braver and taleted than i . to take on this task ya gotta have good juju on yer team. i dont have any advice but i am watchin what ya got going. i do have an interest in what you,re gonna try good luck! as far as hypo arms are concerened i just got a custom wound arm from tjetsgrig/jim it,s over the top smooth and fast.hope yours come out well !!
I dont know if Im more talented... I just like to try and make my own stuff. I hear the first few you make dont run so well. The thing I do have on my team is a friend who winds stupidly fast drag arms showing me the ropes. He should be a huge help.
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post #8 of 91 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 11:25 PM
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I have wound a couple pancake arms for my T-jets, and they have come out very well, I want to start trying to work on some that would be Fray type legal, I have found that for the winding process a bobin tool like the fishing fly builders use works very good. There are types that have an extended tip & you can lay that wire wrap right in place on the stack easily, and it goes pretty fast. Does any one have a chart for the wire diameter & length required to produce a specific ohm after the pole is wound? if so I would really appreciate that info, also any tricks or tools to remove & attach the com plate would be appreciated.

I made a crude little press to reform the tabs but you have to be soo careful, I know there has to be a better way. I use a brass sleeve to center the comm plate on the stack, then remove it afterwards.

Also if anyone knows what to use to dye the armature stacks with, that information would be nice to know as well. I just got my first lamination stack done, checked the shaft & now after a little lathe work its near perfectly round. I may just paint this one on the ends but it would be nice to dye it like some I have seen.

One other piece of advice from a novice for rewinds, I have had really good luck balancing my arms with epoxy afterwards, and they run very smooth, get yourself a watch makers poising tool, I picked up a really nice ruby jaw unit for $15 from ebay, Just take your time when you balance, I blow on the arm with a straw to rotate it. I practiced with modeling clay until I got the "expertise" & nerve up to start using the epoxy.

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post #9 of 91 (permalink) Old 01-05-2011, 10:02 AM
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http://www.wiretron.com/ this website has a resistance calculator you can download. Does not work with windows 7. After you figure out the ohms per foot (opf) 72% of that figure will be your reading at the pole. 37awg wire is .512148 opf. For this example we will figure a roughly 3ohm arm. opf.512148 x 9ft x 72%= 3.32ohms.

Eric
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post #10 of 91 (permalink) Old 01-05-2011, 05:41 PM
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The thing I do have on my team is a friend who winds stupidly fast drag arms showing me the ropes. He should be a huge help.
This fast?? This is one of my 2 laminate motors.......2 car batteries.



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post #11 of 91 (permalink) Old 01-05-2011, 06:07 PM
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http://www.wiretron.com/ this website has a resistance calculator you can download. Does not work with windows 7. After you figure out the ohms per foot (opf) 72% of that figure will be your reading at the pole. 37awg wire is .512148 opf. For this example we will figure a roughly 3ohm arm. opf.512148 x 9ft x 72%= 3.32ohms.

Eric
www.mobydiditperformace.com
Thanks that is exactly what I was looking for.

The vid on the drag t-jet is just sick, unbelievably fast, How many runs do you get on brushes & comm of that type build? I have no experience with any drag type cars, but that is impressive.

How do you stop the thing without demolishing the car?

Boosted

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post #12 of 91 (permalink) Old 01-05-2011, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Boosted-Z71 View Post
I have wound a couple pancake arms for my T-jets, and they have come out very well, I want to start trying to work on some that would be Fray type legal, I have found that for the winding process a bobin tool like the fishing fly builders use works very good. There are types that have an extended tip & you can lay that wire wrap right in place on the stack easily, and it goes pretty fast. Does any one have a chart for the wire diameter & length required to produce a specific ohm after the pole is wound? if so I would really appreciate that info, also any tricks or tools to remove & attach the com plate would be appreciated.

I made a crude little press to reform the tabs but you have to be soo careful, I know there has to be a better way. I use a brass sleeve to center the comm plate on the stack, then remove it afterwards.

Also if anyone knows what to use to dye the armature stacks with, that information would be nice to know as well. I just got my first lamination stack done, checked the shaft & now after a little lathe work its near perfectly round. I may just paint this one on the ends but it would be nice to dye it like some I have seen.

One other piece of advice from a novice for rewinds, I have had really good luck balancing my arms with epoxy afterwards, and they run very smooth, get yourself a watch makers poising tool, I picked up a really nice ruby jaw unit for $15 from ebay, Just take your time when you balance, I blow on the arm with a straw to rotate it. I practiced with modeling clay until I got the "expertise" & nerve up to start using the epoxy.

Boosted

There are plenty of wire gauge guides online, I did a google search and found plenty. I made a magnetic balancer out of a gear press that is rediculously sensitive. I only epoxy balanced once so far and it was ok, it was far easier to grind small slits and remove material with a dremel. I get mixed reviews on whats the better approach.
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post #13 of 91 (permalink) Old 01-05-2011, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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This fast?? This is one of my 2 laminate motors.......2 car batteries.


YouTube - Aurora Outlaw Tjet Scale 1/4 mile


I dont know about THAT fast...lol I have to ask him.
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post #14 of 91 (permalink) Old 01-05-2011, 10:48 PM
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Yeah, I have a magnetic type balancer as well, but I prefer the poising tool. As for the method I was not sure which was best, grinding the stack or the epoxy method. I am waiting to see how the trued stack setup turns out in terms of how close I can get the air gap to what I want.

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post #15 of 91 (permalink) Old 01-05-2011, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Boosted-Z71 View Post
Thanks that is exactly what I was looking for.

The vid on the drag t-jet is just sick, unbelievably fast, How many runs do you get on brushes & comm of that type build? I have no experience with any drag type cars, but that is impressive.

How do you stop the thing without demolishing the car?

Boosted
Hey, thanks Boost!

I can get quite a few runs out of a comm. They will wear away on the trailing egde of the comm segments getting smaller with each pass. Once the e.t.'s start to drop off, it's time for a new motor! As far as balancing goes, I lean more towards epoxy, grinding the stack tends to change your magnetic field, in my opinion ( I've tried both ways w/better e.t.'s with epoxy ).

Jim Sgrig

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