Death Star 16D motors - HobbyTalk
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 08:07 AM Thread Starter
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Death Star 16D motors

Just getting back into slots after a 25 year break.....need to catch up. FAST! The track I am racing at, Little Asheville Speedway, is running the Parma motors, the one I am interested in is the Death Star 16D #501, What are you guys doing to keep em running tip top. What makes up fast? (raced R/C for a few years in between, that's were all the posts went!) THANKS
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 09:37 AM
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Deathstars

They are sealed motors there is not much you can do to them without breaking them open and that's usually against the rules.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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brushes? springs? how do you keep em clean, what do you use for cleaning fluids? back in the 60's you could buy a "comm stick" that fit through the brush hood to clean the comm, don't see anything like that now? or are we supposed to use em till dity and throw them away? I was in 1/10th scale R/C for a while and got spoiled I guess, motor dyno, comm lathe, and all.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 10:34 AM
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16d

You can replace the springs and the brushes with upgrades . I'm sending you a pm .
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 10:38 AM
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Super bigfoot 2 brushes and new springs, the ones that sit on the motors in the packages get weak. I forget what springs we used, but they are slightly stiffer than the stock and they are not brass.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 10:48 AM
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Also,

We always felt the armature slop in all the motors at the hobby shop and bought the ones with the least amount of front to back movement. We break our motors in connected to a dremel in water to seat the brushes. Then clean it out good with electrical cleaner and lube the bushings. We have tried cutting the brushes to advance timing, and also slot them to reduce friction, either seemed to work OK for a little while but the motors taper off quicker this way, so we stopped cutting them.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 07:34 AM Thread Starter
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NO internet the last time I was into slots....makes it interesting and confusing, so much information. For example, the 16D, sealed but look at all the "stuff" out there for them? Am I missing something? Is there a 16D Mod. class somewhere?
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 08:46 AM
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To keep clean - use the electrical spray that you local track has available and everyone is using - it will not hurt the seal.

IF you are allowed to change brushes - ProSlot Gold Dust

IF you are allowed to change springs - Champion Light

There are still comm sticks available (I still have some).

There are a lot of other things that you can do, but you must look at the rules and decipher what you can and can not do. I would first get the best handling chassis and body you can and then work on the motor.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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been looking for a comm stick that will work on the 16D, where can I get one? I been cutting narrow strips of emery paper to slip in and clean the comm. Also used some "brake cleaner" that we used to clean motors in RC, not sure the solution is good for the brushes in the slot motors?
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 07:01 PM
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Send me an e-mail at jeff (at) glueside (dot) com
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-06-2010, 05:34 PM
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Find a source for the motor seals, find a way to remove them and put them back on or copy them and start blue printing them. It's not cheating until you get caught. This is why had out races are the only thing that ever work for large groups of racers.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-06-2010, 08:49 PM
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WOW - you are actually sitting there telling someone to remove the tape do you what you want and then put it back. It takes a lot of nerve to do something like that.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-27-2010, 10:13 AM
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speed!!!!

2 drops of lighter fluid on the com ,spin it, let it dry, then race it, fastest motors you will ever have
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-27-2010, 01:41 PM
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Well Ralf, it all depends on what they allow. One of the first things I do is move the can oilite to take up the extra slop and solder it in. I also super glue the magnet so they don't move. If changing the brushes is allowed I've had real good luck with the ProSlot goldust brushes. Make sure you radius them first. Then tweak the spring a little so the part that hits the brush is in the middle. Also bend the long leg of the spring to add more tension. I don't like the Champion light spring on the motor because the spring is to big in diameter where the spring cups are so the tension in constantly changing. I then break it in at 5 volts for about 15 minutes using a couple of Revtech drops to help with the brush seating. After 15 min of break in use a few drops of VooDoo to clean up the comm and your ready to go racing. Hope this helps but remember to check what the rules are exactly first. Good Luck

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