Thanks for the tips guys...Never tried soaking in Super Clean, wasn't sure if it would soften up the body...will experiment on some resin blems. Also not sure what type/brand of resin Modelhaus uses either.
Lacquer thinner will soften up resin, but the body will "possibly" harden back up, takes a couple of days. When I screw up a paint job, I dunk and swish it immediately in a bowl of of thinner while it's still on the paint stick, just long enough to get the paint off, then swish it in as bowl of water to rinse off the thinner, blow if off and let it dry. If it softens, just leave it alone for a few days, it may harden back up, then scrub it, rinse, and prime again...
Scrubbing...try some bathroom Softscrub, has a little grit to etch the body. Some use toothpaste, Comet, Westly's Bleachwhite, Dawn, etc.
Primer... I use Dupilicolor "High Build" for the most part, they also sell primer sealers in white, red oxide, grey, and black...
Paints... I use lacquer base paints, less headaches. Enamels take too long to dry, have had repaints screw up (the chemical reaction, blistering, wrinkling). You just have to be too careful with enamels. Lacquers you can water sand in 4 or 5 hours, repaint anytime, paint will bond good.
Tape...get you some Tamiya masking tape
Clears... I use lacquer clear on my custom decals as a top coat, so I can apply the decals, then recoat the whole car. I spray a clearcoat between colors, gives you some sanding room for overspray. Some use Future Floor Wax for their final finish. I also use an automotive basecoat clear finish. It's just how much time you want to put into it.
Hope this helps and as always, opinions will vary!!! Just gotta find what works for you. When in doubt, test first!!! RM