Honda Generator EU1000i Idle Rough - HobbyTalk
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-19-2004, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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Honda Generator EU1000i Idle Rough

I have recently purchased a Honda Generator and I must choke the engine and leave it choked for the engine to idle smoothly. If I don't choke it, it hunts. I must keep it choked throughout use to keep it running smooth. I can never take it off or it hunts or runs rough again.

I have pulled the carburetor and cleaned it completely, installed a new spark plug, put in new gas and cleaned the air cleaner even though this is a relatively new generator.


What would cause this? Am I okay to keep the generator choked to smooth out the idle?

Thanks,

Patrick

Last edited by phurley; 12-20-2004 at 12:51 AM.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-20-2004, 12:08 AM
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yes man some have to be choked to start. my 12 hp briggs has to have the throttle up all the way choking it and i have to let it run like that for a couple secends then let off it. if its a big engine it's got a fuel bowl and will be hard to start. always start on choke.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-20-2004, 01:24 AM
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if you have to keep it choked for it to idle smooth then the carburator is still plugged somewhere on the low side or could be sucking air somewhere possible throttle shaft or intake gasket ,,if it has not been ran alot then i would rule out throttle shaft .. easy to find vacuum leak , with a few careful squirts of wd .. check for leaks ,, if no leaks then i'd re-clean the carb ,just my 2 cents not normal to have to keep it on choke ,,does it have magnetic idle down ? hold the throtle linkage and see if it still surges with the choke off , i'm willing to bett that it is a dirty carb problem typical on things like generators that have a lot of sitting time

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-20-2004, 01:48 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah I did notice that the gasket between the intake and the carb was loose. What should I use to seal it to the intake and the carb?
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-20-2004, 02:50 AM
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um tightening it down should work unless its messed up. then either a new one or some rtv sealer that permatex stuff should work but get the stuff that can handle gas. its simpler to get a new one. i only use the rtv sealer on bolt on mufflers beats the hell outta those other gaskets. gives a tight seal and doesn't burn. but get it for gas it should read on the pack if you choose to go that route. napa advance or autozone should carry it. mechanic approved. used in racin stands up to high pressure. doesn't dry out neither.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-20-2004, 09:34 AM
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a new gasket or make one ,, the carb should tighten up no problem
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-20-2004, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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I have feeling this isn't the issue. Its a brand new generator. It did sit in Arizona for a couple years in a box. The gaskets are in perfect shape. I took the carburetor apart though and the jet was clean. Argggg.

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-20-2004, 01:47 PM
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probably outta tune a little.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-20-2004, 10:39 PM
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outta tune verry possible ..oh yea honda verry good engine
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-20-2004, 10:53 PM
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yep in arizona he says. 2 years out there. heating up then settling down to cold got it loose and not to mention they are mass produced some will be outta wack and your elevation and air pressure all pertaining to weather will affect it even more. honda good engine to me if its the commercial types. the consumers are good but to me just don't last long and have less torque for the hard stuff but they are good mostly.
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-21-2004, 10:46 AM
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Just something to remember about generators...they will hunt at idle until you put an electrical load on them (unless they have an electronic idle control). If the generator is just running rough instead of hunting, you definately have a carb problem. Also, I just recently worked on a Northern Equipment generator with a Honda engine on it that had a problem similar to yours. It was a new generator but it kept running rough no matter what I did to it. I pulled the carb apart and it looked spotless, but there was definately something wrong with it. I completely tore down the carb and put it in the carb cleaner/agitator for 15 minutes to make sure it was completely spotless. After that it ran perfectly!

You have to remember that even though a carb looks clean, it can have varnish in the ports and passages that can cause problems even though you can see them.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-21-2004, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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After my 4 cleanings, I have it under 900 watts of load. It still needs to be slightly choked to run smooth. This unit has a throttle control motor. I believe this is for the eco-throttle which varies the RPM under load. I can't throw it into an agitator without completely removing that throttle control motor which sits on top of the carb. The Japanese.... should have bought a Yamaha. Oh that's Japanese too.

Last edited by phurley; 12-21-2004 at 01:02 PM.
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-21-2004, 03:48 PM
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ahhhhhhh i'd sell it and buy something with a good old briggs engine or tec or kohler. my old briggs 3000 watt starts first pull no hunting or nothing. even when i forgot and started it under load. that ohv engine i just pop the throttle off and a couple other simple things and its ready to be worked on. god i hate eco's though i hope it isn't an eco but it just might be the high speed screw needs a little adjusting backwards.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-21-2004, 09:06 PM
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does it still "hunt " or run rough with choke full open if you hold the linkage to the carburator on idle ?
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-21-2004, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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There isn't a linkage. Its an eco-throttle so its either full open or on eco which then throttles it back based upon the load. If there is no load then it hunts. As soon as I put a load on it, it needs to be slightly choked to run smooth. If I take the choke off, it will runs rough occasionally.
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