Homelite XL12 Chainsaw carb adjustment - HobbyTalk
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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Homelite XL12 Chainsaw carb adjustment

I have a old blue Homelite XL12 chainsaw.

I need to know about the carb adjustment.

The saw starts good and takes the full good.

I plan to warm it up to operating temp the make some final adjustments as I am cutting wood.

Does the front needle adjust the idle speed or high speed

I want to be sure of the proper adjustment procedure before I start working on it and get it messed up.

Thanks for any help.

Fred
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-24-2010, 11:32 AM
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on most 2 cyccle carbs the screw closest to the cylinder is low. the one closest to the air filter is high. if you look closely at the casting where the screws thread into the carb body, it may be stamped L or H.

--Lucky
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-24-2010, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luckyvision View Post
on most 2 cyccle carbs the screw closest to the cylinder is low. the one closest to the air filter is high. if you look closely at the casting where the screws thread into the carb body, it may be stamped L or H.

--Lucky
Thanks,

will check it out if not stamped i will use your response as a guide.

planning on giving the saw to my son and wanted it to be in top running condition.

Thanks for your response.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010, 06:54 PM
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Saw Adjustment particular to Homelight XL12

First of all take all possible safety precautions and wear ear protectors and remember, saws are very very dangerous!

Back to the XL12 or XL12XL LuckyVision is correct, follow the suggestion and Once you have the 2 mixture screws identified (one is above the other and the same size and in a rubber bush) check also for the idle speed screw it is either a large screw visible from the outside or under the airfilter and its cover on the side of the carb where the throttle rod is connected.
The standard setting of the 2 mixture screws is achieved first by screwing them in until they stop and be VERY VERY careful not to overtighten them as it will distort the carb body and you will need a new carb.
Now unscrew the low mixture needle 1 and a quarter turns and the high mixture needle 1 full turn.

Clamp the saw securely in a metal working vise by its bar and adjust it so the chain can revolve without any danger of fouling the vise or the vibration loosening the vise.
Start the saw and warm it up and then let it idle, if it stalls screw the idle speed screw in a 1/4 turn and try again. once the saw is idling ok check to see if the chain is revolving, if it is, reduce the idle speed by unscrewing the idle speed screw a little until the centrifugal clutch disengages (if it doesn't stop and the engine stalls you need new springs or a new clutch before you go any further).
Now carefulluy screw in the low speed mixture screw until the engine speed rises and then cuts out, just when it cuts out note the position and unscrew the screw a half a turn, check the clutch again and if the chain is not revolving the idle mix is ok for the moment.
Now to the high speed needle screw: be aware that weakening the mix with this screw (screwing in) makes the saw rev higher and making it richer (unscrewing it) reduces the speed.
Rev the saw as high as it will go and carefully adjust the high speed needle screw until the engine 4 strokes (makes a rah rah rhum rhum sound)(The only way to describe it!!!) if you screw it in (clockwise) the engine speed will rise and screwing it out(anticlockwise) makes the engine speed fall. The adjustment would usually be around a quarter of a turn out from the position that it was in before you started adjusting it this time, which makes it 1 and a quarter turns out from fully closed. The saw should now be adjusted correctly.
All the above assumes that the petrol tank is immaculately clean and there is a new filter in the tank and that the fuel pipe is in perfect condition i.e. no kinks, no softening or stickiness from thinners and old age so that it collapses when revving.

If you have any doubts and cannot identify the 4 stroking sound do not keep revving the saw as it may seize, get someone to show you a saw 4 stroking and after you have heard it you will get the idea of the sound.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the input.

took the old saw out yesterday had a large stump to cut off.

warmed it up: when warm the saw would idle fine and run slow enough that the chain would stop turning so i think the slow idle is fine.

then as i was cutting the stump off i adjusted the high speed adjustment or one closest to air filter, got the old saw running and pulling good. The stump was larger than the bar length so i was cutting a full bar length of wood.

I had to remember this old saw does not run as fast as my late model husky or stihl.

But the old saw got the stump cut off and was running fine.

Thanks for the adjustment tips.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-16-2010, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxwell View Post
thanks for the input.

took the old saw out yesterday had a large stump to cut off.

warmed it up: when warm the saw would idle fine and run slow enough that the chain would stop turning so i think the slow idle is fine.

then as i was cutting the stump off i adjusted the high speed adjustment or one closest to air filter, got the old saw running and pulling good. The stump was larger than the bar length so i was cutting a full bar length of wood.

I had to remember this old saw does not run as fast as my late model husky or stihl.

But the old saw got the stump cut off and was running fine.

Thanks for the adjustment tips.
Them old blues are tough i tell you that thats why i hardly ever get any parts orders for the old blues

glad to hear it is working for you

calvin
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