Ok - round 2.
We have the diaphragm next to the carb body.
The metal disc next to the needle valve.
Then the gasket. Then the primer plate.
Push the primer until you hear a "squishy" sound which indicates gas has gotten down to the carb from the tank. If you hear just air then either the gas line is blocked or the primer isn't moving the diaphragm to open the needle valve, or the gas cap is not venting. If it's the cap just loosen it enough to allow air in. Try priming again.
If still nothing it might be the "check ball" as shown in diagram 8 on page 9 of the manual that geogrubb attached to his message. If this is rusted shut/clogged you "might" run at idle but you most likely will not run with any throttle. Looking at the same diagram the path for gas at idle goes up the far left. The main "power" flow goes up past the check ball.
Also make sure the throttle plate is opening the right way IF you have the 3 teeny tiny holes on the inside of the main bore. Otherwise it may not matter.
These are represented in the drawing as 3 little cirlces in a straight line inside a bigger circle. As the throttle plate opens it should reveal these barely visible holes one by one as the plate goes INTO the bore on the same side as the holes. This allows the engine to draw more and more gas as each one is revealed. When you go full throttle the gas from these is small compared to what should be coming out of the check ball opening.
And of course you tried geogrubb's trick of spraying carb cleaner to temporarily seal gasket leaks which prevent all of this suction from happening in the first place.
Got it running yet, I'm tired. LOL