Craftsman 23cc weedwacker only runs fully choked - HobbyTalk
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
post #1 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-03-2009, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4
Craftsman 23cc weedwacker only runs fully choked

Hey everyone im new here. I have a little problem. I have a craftsman 23cc weedwacker my neighbor gave me, because he was moving. The only thing is that it needs some work. I have a gas/oil ratio of 40:1. The gas is 93 octane. Well I first prime it a few times, and with the choke on full, it starts and will idle, ill let it warm up and as soon as i move the choke to half it bogs/dies right out. I tried cleaning the carb, and that dosent seem to help. Im lost and thats why im here for a some help. if anyone knows what maybe wrong and/or how to go about fixing it, please let me know

thanks again, steve
veedub14 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-03-2009, 08:59 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 173
did you change the carb gasket(s)? if not try that. When you say cleaned the carb what exactly do you mean (IE: took it apart, just took it off and sprayed it)?
LowRider is offline  
post #3 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-04-2009, 12:42 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4
no i didn't change carb gaskets, i took the carb off and checked the diapram(sp). and cleaned it with carb cleaner.
veedub14 is offline  
post #4 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-04-2009, 10:08 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 173
change the gaskets, I'm not familiar with this carb but the diaphragm should be in the center or maybe has more than one gasket in the carb? if so change them all (there may be something you can't see and its just a good idea), see if you can get a gasket kit for it might save you some money if they sell a kit for it. maybe someone here can look it up for you. other than that there should be a small screen in the carb to catch small debri, clean that and be careful not to crush it cause they are fragile. And if possible let the carb sit in carb cleaner. if that doesn't work i would see if someone here can get you the specs for the carb to adjust it, and if anything get a new carb.
LowRider is offline  
post #5 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-04-2009, 11:59 PM
The Shadow
 
hankster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 1998
Location: North Fort Myers FL
Posts: 15,151
Most likely just needs a carb adjustment. Start at 1 3/4 turns out from fully closed and adjust from there. If you have to go more then 2 turns out, you have a carb problem.

North Fort Myers Weather - http://www.northfortmyersweather.com/weather/

Hank
hankster is offline  
post #6 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-05-2009, 12:47 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4
okay, would sears carry a carb kit to replace the gaskets and whatnot, and are these carbs tunable? Ill also try leaving the carb to sit in carb cleaner.
veedub14 is offline  
post #7 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-08-2009, 12:49 AM
Elder Statesman
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 808
Yes, Sears should have the parts. Just enter the model #. I'm thinking new gaskets/diaphram should do the trick and do as hankster suggested.
Dean
Rentahusband is offline  
post #8 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-08-2009, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4
well i went to my local sears and they said they don't carry them, so i ended up buying a new spark plug. I tried cleaning the carb and what not and it seems to run, but the only problem is when i run to "fully choked" and move it to half or no choke, the screws that hold the carb and air filter want to come loose. I think its because i misplaced the , i think it was some sort of washer that was there so after i tighten the the top intake screw,(the only the choke Handle pivots on), and now its hard to move and it causees the that screw to come loose over time.
veedub14 is offline  
post #9 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-11-2009, 12:28 AM
Elder Statesman
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 808
Did you try the sears website? I am thinking the carb needs a soaking in carb cleaner and some compressed air to blow any debris from the tiny passages. There is a tiny screen to remove also. Remove inlet needle, there is a tiny spring under the needle lever that likes to jump, so be careful.
Dean
Rentahusband is offline  
post #10 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-15-2009, 06:05 AM
New Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1
Full Choke Problem..

I've experienced the exact same problem with my own 40cc craftsman, the problem is almost definitely the carb gaskets. One of the gaskets (under the spring) acts as a fuel pump to supply fuel to the carb. When these gaskets get stiff they stop pumping effectively. I had previously thoroughly cleaned the carb (small pasages and all) and the problem remained. The new gaskets fixed the problem. My carb has no adjustment screws (CA model). I picked up the gaskets from my local lawn mower shop. They had a kit with many extras in it but sorting through it I found the right ones. Pay attention to gasket orientation and that sometimes the gaskets that appear to be one are actually two stacked on top of each other.

Hope this helps....
kschaffn is offline  
post #11 of 38 (permalink) Old 08-28-2009, 09:25 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: MICHIGAN
Posts: 72
Exclamation 1980 / 25.0cc Sears Weedwacker

Hello Folks, I have read above the problems with the carb, and choke settings in order for the engine to run ... 1/2 to full choke. This definately indicates a fuel system restriction, or weak fuel system delivery.
My question is ... Will compressed air blown thru the orficies where the needles are for fuel adjust ... High / low ports ... DUE THE TRICK ?
I don't know whether it has a fuel pump, a diaphram. The illustration for my MODEL 234.795410 doesn't show it. The gas tank is above the carb in the upright position. THANKS-TO-ALL, for your help. Sincerely, Nitrojc.
NITROJC is offline  
post #12 of 38 (permalink) Old 08-28-2009, 05:26 PM
Top Dog
 
30yearTech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 6,075
The IPL shows a WA series Walbro carburetor,the side with just one screw holding the cover on is the fuel pump side of the carburetor. If the problem is clogged jets, then blowing air through them may do the trick. Most likely the problems is due to stiff diaphragms, a sticking inlet metering needle or a plugged filter screen in the carburetor. You won't hurt anything by trying a little compressed air 15 lbs or so should be sufficient, or even a little carburetor or brake parts cleaner (that's what I use). Usually when the circuit is clogged you just don't get any response from the adjustment screws, but it's easy enough to try and you don't have to take anything apart. If it does not help, then it's time to tear into the carburetor.

Best of Luck...
30yearTech is offline  
post #13 of 38 (permalink) Old 08-28-2009, 05:56 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: MICHIGAN
Posts: 72
Unhappy Performance is Sporatic

30 year, In what way do you use the brake parts cleaner ? I don't know if the adjusting screws would have worked .... I left them alone.
Upon, first starting the engine, when just warm, it will run with the choke wide open, but Stumbles without pumping the throttle; then eventually dies. When hot now, it must be choked ! Thanks, Jim.
NITROJC is offline  
post #14 of 38 (permalink) Old 08-28-2009, 06:08 PM
Top Dog
 
30yearTech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 6,075
I just remove the adjustment screws and attach the little straw to the parts cleaner and spray it in through the adjustment screw openings. This washes out the circuit and will generally clear up any obstruction, if there is any.
30yearTech is offline  
post #15 of 38 (permalink) Old 08-29-2009, 08:11 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: MICHIGAN
Posts: 72
Angry

Well 30 year, I found another problem upon opening the casing. The fuel line had a small tear, leaking at the carb. I cut off the bad spot, and reconnected line to carb.
I also, removed the adjustment screws for the HI / low mixture, and shot some gumout carb cleaner w/ straw thru them. The original settings were 1 1/2 open for the low, and 1 turn open for the high side. Idle screw was at 1 1/2 turns out.
I then TRIED to start the engine ............ NO START what-so-ever. Not even a sputter, until I primmed it thru the air intake w/ gumout spray. THEN IT WOULD RUN OFF THE PRIMES, BUT THAT'S IT. I haven't tried the compressed air yet, that will be next ! Unless there's a better idea short of removing the carb to clean it, or soak it.
It just seems to me that these small passageways may require a super small cleaner wire run thru them.... Maybe, a few thousands diameter would work.
Anyway, Please give me your take on this stuff. Thanks, Jim.
NITROJC is offline  
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the HobbyTalk forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome